"Using primer on Team Yankee & PSC Moderns?" Topic

Greetings, I'm about to start a new project using Battlefront's and Plastic Soldier Company's Modern plastics.

I have a little experience painting Airfix soldiers back in the day but absolutely none with these new figures.

What do people recommend for priming these figures? Is a quality primer like "Army Painter" good enough by itself or do people still recommend the older ways like using Gesso or white glue to keep the paint from chipping?

Thanks for any tips.

I have not had any issues. I generally undercoat in the base uniform color (Testors or Krylon). These are more Model plastic than Airfix.

Wash first to clean off mold release

Thank you Saber. Do you use the Ultra Flat Krylon or just any old one?

I did PSC's new NorthAG Ultracast models. 10mm(1/144)

Don't need primer (But I used Vallejo coloured primer for most tanks since it was the right color in a spray can).

I did not wash anything either.

Hot, hot water will fix any bent barrels. Dip for as long as your fingers can stand it, reshape. Done. I even did this after I had painted a turret. No paint removed.

Love the material.

If you like there is a FaceBook group for BGNorthAG with lots of pretty pictures and some files.

It really depends upon the type of plastic they are made of. Soft plastics usually have adherence issues (Army Men figures are made of Polyethylene, or PE plastic -- virtually nothing will adhere to this type of plastic, for more than a couple of years, with gentle handling…). The harder plastics tend to accept most spray primers similar to metal mini's.

Personally, I tend to use the cheapest automotive primer I can find. Make sure to properly mix it, first. I recently began using a 3-inch PVC pipe, with a pipe pressure test plug in the end, sticking it into my cordless drill, for mixing. Here is the same concept applied to using a tin can (cheaper, may not require a trip to a hardware store if you have the bolt/screw needed, at hand). The PVC pipe system is virtually identical, but it requires more time and effort to build it. It works superbly, for rattle cans. I use mine, quite a lot!

I took a newly purchased spray can, tipped it, slowly, to see if the ball would move, inside: barely. Ran it in the mixer, for 15 seconds, and it moved like I had been shaking it for two minutes, by hand! Cheers!

As I have always worked from black base for my figures I've treated my PSC ultracast figures exactly the same as metals – sprayed matt black as base. Currently painting 15mm sassanid cavalry with both metal and plastic versions at the same time with no real difference in how they take paint, ultracast figures I've completed are odd to pick up as they are so light and with some flexibility but don't seem to lose paint with handling (yet?)