"Best Putty for conversion work?" Topic

I have bought some Green Stuff, although I haven't used it. What I'm reading tells me that it is very sticky and saliva should be used on modelling tools.

Seems like a lot of trouble. Is there a better, more workable product that the membership might recommend?

I find ProCreate to be a very good for epoxy clay. I also like Magic Sculpt. Magic Scultp works like pottery clay, but hardens like concrete. You can smooth it with water.

I have just been playing with BeesPutty. You need to warm the clay And mix it before you use it. All polymer clays have to be conditioned before you can sculpt with it. Right from the package it will be hard and will not be easy to warm with your fingers. Once it is warmed it will be easy to mix so it can be worked. To cure the clay you have to bake it in an oven.

Matthew

I've been getting surprisingly good results from Golden's Molding Paste – easy to work with after you get used to it and hardens up nicely (and pretty quickly).

Use water not saliva on your tools and hands It is very sticky but don't use too much water, it won't stick

I use Green stuff. There's a lot of tricks to using it well, worth a Goooogle

If you have the type that is sold as two strips, separate the strips and store separately. Over time, a lump will form where the two parts touch each other

It's very sticky when first mixed, mix until the lump you have is uniform in colour (a yucky gray). I generally wear gloves for this part. If I want to roll it into threads or squish it flat, I use wax paper which makes it a lot easier. Can cut through the wax paper with knife to get small pieces that are easier to control

There's some kind of a formula for it becoming firmer and less sticky over time. Sticky is good because it sticks to the model and other pieces of green stuff. Build up in layers, not big lumps. Details are best added through strips and so on. If you then leave it for an hour or so, it becomes firmer and less sticky, and this is the best time to add surface detail like fur.

Water is good for stopping it sticking to tools and so on, unless you are messing around with it when it is very sticky. Saliva I find works better then, Vaseline is even more effective. Be careful with Saliva and Vaseline as they leave behind oils that will stop green stuff from sticking, and will need to be washed off the model very carefully before priming. If you let it cure for a bit, you shouldn't need to use anything other than water

Anthony Barton uses Fimo
link

Good luck

John

I do a lot of converting on 15mm and smaller.
Very happy with a combo of about 40% Green stuff with about 60% Milliput. Mix them separately, then together.
I find I always need to first put a dab of Superglue gel on the place on the figure where I want to put the putty.

I try to get it right first time, but I can carve it afterwards to better shape with even a .5mm drill bit in an electric hobby drill.

Has anyone worked with Milliput? Any comments?

Squadron putty is very easy to use, not too sticky, and sands easily.

I tried Milliput, it's supposed to sand more easily, but when I tried, sanding made the layer of Milliput fall off the model

People with more skill are likely to have different experiences. I believe it's really popular among model aircraft builders

John

If you need brown stuff, grab a package of 'gas tank repair kit' at the hardware store…

Hiya Widowson et al, here are a couple of YouTube videos you might find helpful/informative:

This first one solely concerns working with Milliput, and how it can be made extremely adaptable using certain techniques:

YouTube link

I watched the whole of this first video, and thought it was quite useful. Esp as it deals with working with miniature figures.

The second video is one I've only partially viewed (so far), and the guy seems to be more of a landscaper than figure sculptor. But he compares four epoxies: Milliput, Green Stuff, ProCreate, and even a woodworking filler!

YouTube link

Your choice will depend, ultimately, on numerous factors: most importantly, what is it you're trying to do? Simply clean up an existing model? Add or change some small details? Or sculpt a whole item from scratch?

If it's the former, then you're only adding small amounts of epoxy to a very stable substrate. If the latter, you probably need to make an armature (or 'doll'), and work up in layers. This is more challenging, as your substrate – the previous layer – may not be rock solid, or you may have adhesion issues between layers.

It's a big, complex and fascinating subject. Enjoy your explorations, and be sure to examine the plethora of info to be found online. My favourite resource is YouTube, as there are tons of demos and tutorials on using epoxies on there. Good luck!

PS – If you want to see what a real artist can do, using Fimo and a Baby Belling oven, check this link:

link

I need it for conversion work. I want to cover the plates on OG grenadier bearskins to convert them to OG chasseurs.

Stuff like that.

Bearskins – have done that with green stuff. In my case I upgraded some troops by cutting their shakoes back and then building up with green stuff

For just filling in, I would go with green stuff as it sticks really well. Wait a bit to cut in and blend the fur details

John

Thanks, John.

I would recommend Magic Sculp. It also last for years.