"painting terrain with washes, recesses issue help" Topic

Howdy,

I've carved out and primed a bunch of rock face sections from pink board. I used a white latex primer and planned to use washes for everything else. Problem is I can't seem to get the washes to settle in the recesses; bubbles form and hold out the wash. First test had to be re-primed when I couldn't get the paint mix to match trying to go back and touch up. Used liquitex flow aid in my second test but that didn't seem to do the trick. I patiently washed, blew away bubbles, and re-washed repeatedly. Worked … but way too time consuming for what I'm trying to get done.

Any suggestions?

Thanks, -Joel

Try dry-brushing.

I second what Jim says. I find, especially with things like rock formations, it's best to paint darker than you want and dry brush up.

Gloss it. Gloss paint is slick, wash/paint doesn't stick so it slides into crevasses. So either use gloss paint on the terrain or use clear gloss on after it's painted but before you use a wash and when dry use a clear mat finish. Magic Wash is the cheapest but I forget the current Pledge floor finish that is the main ingredient… I think it's this one [no] it's this one link
You don't have to go to Amazon, you local big box retailer should have it

dragon 6 has hit the nail on the head. Almost all matte or flat paint has too much "tooth" to allow the wash to penetrate into the cracks and crevices. Having a smooth, gloss finish is the key. And using Pledge floor finisher is the best and least expensive way. Just let the Pledge dry at least 24 to 48 hours before you apply your wash.

Jim

I've never had anything like that happen. Maybe you are working the wash too much and that is causing bubbles

What kind of a wash are you using ?

Washes should be thin enough to run into recesses, you can't use them to establish a base colour

With scenery, I think being uneven in colour is a good thing. I use craft paints so slapping more paint on where things aren't quite right is inexpensive and easy. I make my own washes using acrylic ink, so no problem using them extensively on scenery

John

2nd Jwebster on cheap made washes. There are several good video on y-tube on how to mix it yourself. Dry is great also but takes more time than doing a wash.

I'm using craft paint and water wash. Had it very thin; even more so when I added flow aid. I think dragon6 and ColCampbell are likely right. Plus, I got Future on hand. I'd used a satin latex, but it really does have a nearly matte finish.

I was trying out this from the Terrain Tutor:
YouTube link

He's working with non base coated modelling plaster, though. Does look really good when he's done.

Thanks again, -JT

I am not sure I fully understand:

But it sounds like to maybe working the wash into a lather (forming bubbles with rapid brushing action).
I would turn the work on its side and brush slowly from (New top) one end to the other (new bottom). Then turn the work up-right again.

Or you can try to add and anti-foaming agent to your wash mix. There are tons of these and it is difficult to know what will work without trying it out but:
link

link

I re-read your description, and had a few ideas.

I suspect your prime may be too gloss and is not holding pigment. You could prime with gesso, which will absorb color very quickly. Your wash may be too thin, too much solvent (water I assume). Skip the liquitex flow aid, this may be working against you. It is intended to help make even layers of paint.

Consider using Future Floor Finish:
link
Now most likely called Johnson Floor Finish as a good part of your wash. It has so body (viscosity) and has been used for washes for many years (at least 20). From my old web-site:
"Future has been use by many painters as a convenient and inexpensive acrylic media. It mixes freely with most brands of water based hobby paints on the market. Its usefulness in modeling is far greater then its humble origins might suggest. For even more uses look over The Complete Future . Beyond acting as a solvent, it is used to seal finished works much like more expensive varnishes. It can also be used to create an effect very similar to the "Miracle Dip" discussed above."
link

And one more positional option. Point the carved rock face up. Put the wash on and let it settle into the cracks with the help of gravity.

Another option for rocks, is Minwax Polyshades Urethane Stain, Royal Walnut color. I paint it it over pink foam, covered with latex house paint, first. I apply it full strength, with a throw-away brush. Absorb excess pools with the edge of a paper towel. Let it dry for 3-5 days. This is a slight variation on The Dip technique. Cheers!