"15mm scale and table size" Topic

So, I'm trying to decide on a couple paths for some WW2 gaming. Plan # involved buying a resin printer and making some 10mm minis. 6mm is just too small and I tried 15mm years ago, but on a 6x4 table I felt the armor looked too close to each other. The scale was just off for me.

I'm seriously reconsidering buying a resin printer only because I don't know if I have the patience for it, and quit frankly I don't know what else I'd want it for past some WW2 minis.

So, does anyone here game in 15mm on a table larger than 6x4? How does it feel to you? Do you have any pictures?

Thanks

I game on anything from 6x8 to 6x16. Regardless, the key is sizing the troops to the table.

If I was starting over, I'd be very interested in Victrix's 12mm stuff that is supposed to be coming out this year.

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I've reconsidered purchasing a resin 3d printer as well. Once I factored in both dollar cost for the unit, your resin stock and the time cost of the learning curve learning to both operate and safely use and clean the device it ends up cheaper to just buy what you need.

15mm table size is a matter of taste, my dream table is a 5x8.

This guy plays mainly 6mm but other scales as well.Have a look at his tables, they are an inspiration.
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Interesting. I came to much the same conclusion--that I couldn't do WWII as I wanted on a 6x4 board--but reversed your solution, going down to 5/6mm. A lot of miniature wargaming is taste and compromise.

In your position, I'd order a couple of smallish armies from Pendraken and see how they looked and played before I did anything else. If they work, you're on your way. If not, you can pretty well always sell matched painted armies.

I play on a 10 by12 foot table. Plenty of room to maneuver, whether it is FIW, FPW or WW2.

I do like that Victrix line, but my fear is it's going to be expensive. I'd rather buy PSC/BF 15mm plastics. I'll wager they'd be cheaper than Victrix.

I too am reconsidering buying a resin printer. The cost/cleanup/hassle might be too much for my limited uses. I've heard from so many 3d printer owners that if you don't view it as a hobby in its own right, then you'll be unhappy. The ONLY other project I had in mind was a Star Wars game, but I could also just easily buy stuff online from people who make it and it would look better than what I could do.

Good call in buying a few tanks of Pendraken and Zvezda and see how they look on my dinner table.

Here's a tangent that's outside of the box for your consideration. Play in two scales. On an actual map, put little square markers for your units, sort of like the map boards used by the military planners of the day. When markers come into contact (ie. shooting range), pull out your minis and some terrain to resolve the firefight. That doesn't have to be at scale, though. Use one terrain board for your tanks, and another for the enemy tanks. Use the boards to figure out cover, hull down, facing, etc. Use an implied separation between the two that suggests the 500 meters of ground between the tanks.

Then, crush the box, because you're not going to be thinking in there any more!

I game 15mm and used to have a 7.5 x 32 table. If I was starting over I would go with 12mm.

I do like pendraken and that victrix stuff will be out soon, but i just don't see the 12mm that much smaller than 15mm

Locally, we use 15mm for WWII and don't have any problems with scale (I think the players locally understand how scales work and realise the implications: although when we recently tried 'What a Tanker' I think everyone had issues – but for big games, no) …

We use everything from 4'x4' (standard Peter Pig) up to multiple 6' tables depending on what's required but prefer to scale games down to, say, 8'x5' to get them onto a space the players can easily work with …

(15mm small game/small table)

(15mm compact scale)

(15mm operational level game/biger table)

10mm has its attractions (but mostly because it could go to a smaller table) but, by and large, for WWII 15mm seems to be a nice compromise.

Phil
P.B.Eye-Candy

captaincold69

I just realized I forgot to touch on the most important part of my query…..game size/scale.

I'm looking to play company + sized games, but I feel like there has been enough responses (thank you all) to give me a better idea what scale will suit my needs.

Another way to approach this is figure density. I don't think it's likely anyone would go too low to be a realistic in the empty battlefield era. But, how many figures/vehicles looks like too much in your scale and space.

I suggest Thinking figure density because they can represent different things from 1:1 in many skirmish games to a stand is a squad in Battlefront WWII to a platoon in Command Decision. Of course those different representations lead to different ground scales and different kinds of decisions for players. Different rules for same figures in the same space.
Phil

I play Spearhead with 15mm on a 8*6 table, and like the look. I play Crossfire with 15mm on a 4*4 table (small games) or on a 6*4 table, and also like the look.

It is something of your buying habit. But i think, at the moment 15mm is the cheapest way to go. So many players are getting rid of their FoW armies for prices you wont get a 10mm army.

Just to be a contrarian, not sure those who are rejecting resin printers aren't exaggerating the costs and messes. I've had mine now for three months (a Longer Orange30) and can say:

1. Messes are greatly exaggerated. I use cheap latex gloves for handling the resin and have had no issues.

2. Costs. I've yet to use up one bottle of 1000mg resin and I've printed over 50 28mm figures so far and still going.

3. Learning curve. If you're using commercial files, there's not much of one. The hardest thing to learn is how to use your slicer and when/when not to use supports. It's different than with an FDM printer.

Martian, I've read this a lot on the various Facebook pages. Clean up and the fumes aren't as bad as many make them out to be. My issue is the need to buy one. I have no desire to fiddle with one, clean up stuff, take the print off the plate, soak the mini in IPA, rinse it off, cure the mini, etc…

That just doesn't sound fun, so why entertain the thought of buying one. The first time a 3 hour print would go up I'd have regrets.

I game 15mm on a 6x8 table.

captaincold69 – Fair enough. It's not for everyone. But it's really changing how I approach new projects (along with my FDM printer). I can print just about any 15mm WW2 vehicle I want now, including ones not released by the usual manufacturers. I can modify or kitbash things digitally, then print. For terrain, FDM printing has been a game changer literally. Much lighter weight buildings than MDF or heavier resin casts. I print my own tree armatures now and simply add lichen and flock.

I also understand where you're coming from Martian. I'm not entirely shut down to the idea. I think, for now, I'm going to wait and see what scale I really want to play in, get into it and then see where I'm at in a year. If I find myself wanting more mini's and/or wanting to game in other genres then a resin printer would make a great birthday gift :)