"Starting WW2 in 20mm: buildings?" Topic

As said, starting in 20mm ww2 western europe theatre, which way to go with buildings? Mdf 20mm, ho train buildings (although they are in a smaller scale) or any other advice?
Thanks

I use many 15mm buildings, mostly the resin ones. Some are too small, but most work fine.

It depends on your games – if doing small skirmish games, e.g. TooFatLardies Chain of Command (single platoon) then it's best to go for true scale buildings with lift off roofs an internal detail. If doing larger scale games, company with more than one or two vehicles then sub-scale is better.

I have hovels 20mm range. Very nice buildings. My games tend to be smaller battles where I want to be able to place figures inside the buildings.

Empires at War in the UK makes some nice mdf painted buildings. The also have two sets. Damaged and undamaged. Five in each set. You can get them painted unpainted. They are nice and priced well. They have a 20% off sale going on.

Thanks

John

PaperTerrain
paperterrain.com
if you are looking for buildings per BillyNM.
One nice feature is:
"Each of the buildings consists of an undamaged outer shell which fits over a ruined version of the same building--perfect for wargames."

Thanks for the answers,much appreciated
will look into these

For my 20mm, Imuse Sarissa 15mm

MDF in 20mm no internal detail as it only makes things difficult when putting figures inside.

Sarissa
Blotz (Eastern Front and Africa)
Charlie Foxtrot
Empires at War
Redvectors(Eastern Front and Africa)
4Ground (very expensive)too much internal detail.

Lancer Miniatures….

link

I use these and Hovels with additions from other manufacturers…..they seem pricey but just need painting whereas mdf offerings need additional work to look comparable…..assembly,filling of joints, basing and painting etc. Not to say that I don't have mdf buildings in the mix tho'!
There is a cheap source of 20mm buildings on Ebay too..

auction

Check out Raventhorpe/Sentry, which can be ordered via their FB page: link

Thanks.
I think BillyNM is right; i have to decide first which scale (more skirmish or bigger comapnay/battalion level) we want to play before looking for buildings etc. So back to the drawing board

I use a big mix of Raventhorpe, old queens hussar, a lot of model railway and my own scratchbuilt buildings.

Cheers
Matt
French Wargame Holidays
"Walk the battlefield in the morning, Wargame it in the afternoon"©

matt,
thanks,
have you a (or more) pictures?

A few here on my Arnhem table, mix of resin, plastic and scratch built

link

And on my ww2 blog too, just scroll through the terrain and batreps
kampfgruppewillow.blogspot.com

Cheers
Matt

Do NOT get or make or use buildings in the same scale as the figures UNLESS you are playing a game where one figure is one figure.

If your scale is other, ALL buildings will be way too big. If your scale is 1/87 for instance and one squad is one stand, then buildings cannot be any larger than 3 inches on the game table. This is the time/space displacement problem with war gaming. Put another way, a typical road would be no greater wide than one sherman tank.

Matt,
Thanks; great blog

Jan

Thanks Jan, with the photobucket catastrophe I gave slowly started to add pictures again directly

Cheers
Matt

Do NOT get or make or use buildings in the same scale as the figures UNLESS you are playing a game where one figure is one figure.

I and most others would disagree with you there. It just looks odd.

Case in point: have a look at these two 20mm Denmark 1940 games.

Perhaps most people's tolerance for suspension of disbelief is greater than yours, but at the end of the day it's just grown men playing with toy soldiers.

If you are playing more than one person per figure assume the buildings represent a block of buildings rather than just one building. Unless you are fighting hobbits your figs should be shorter than the building doors.