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"Removing Figurehead 1/6000 DDs from bases" Topic

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hindsTMP Supporting Member of TMP25 Sep 2019 5:27 p.m. PST

Procedure for removing Figurehead 1:6000 DDs from their bases. I added an image at the bottom to illustrate the main steps in this procedure.

1) Using a small pair of flush-cut rail nippers (model railroad tool; available from Micro-Mark), I clip the base from around the model hull. Don't let the nippers touch the hull during this step, which is merely intended to remove excess material to make filing-down easier. It is not intended to produce a final hull-side surface.
2) (Optional) As with all my Figurehead models, I then adjust the sheer line of the hull to approximate the desired final shape, mostly by careful bending. FYI, the sheer line is the edge of the weather deck of the hull when viewed from the side; the weather deck includes the forecastle deck at the bow, the quarterdeck at the stern, and the connecting deck amidships. Often models will be bent during the molding process, or the original master may have had an exaggerated sheer forward or aft. I may also clean up the casting and adjust the superstructure shape as desired, using small hobby files / cutters. This step needs to be performed before the bottom of the hull is filed down.
3) The resulting clipped (and adjusted) hull is then filed down to (just short of) the desired waterline using a sharp, small-to-medium-sized metal file (hardware store) clamped to my workbench. The model is held in the fingers, and moved against the clamped, stationary file. One needs file cleaners for this step. 2 kinds I use are a course one with stiff angled mild steel bristles, and a fine one with brass bristles which looks like a large toothbrush (Micro-Mark). During the filing process, I periodically place the model on a small flat surface, hold it up to eye-level, and examine it from all sides. If this is not done, the model's final waterline will be "tilted", and it will look as if it is sinking (not desirable).
4) The sides of the hull are then cleaned up using a needle file (Micro-Mark). If needed, the flare and rake of the bow (and stern) can be adjusted at this stage. Note that the lower part of the final hull shape may well be metal which was originally part of the base. FYI, flare is the outward slope of the bows of the hull when viewed in section, and rake is the angle of the bow when the hull is viewed from the side. File cleaners are needed for this step also, and sometimes an old exacto-blade is needed to gently remove a stubborn piece of metal from the file.
5) The model is them brought down to the final waterline, using the same procedures as in step 3. Carefully remove any metal burr from around the bottom edge of the hull with a fingernail, or the back of an exacto blade.

This relatively time-consuming procedure is why I (and possibly others) convinced Steve of Hallmark to cast the modern Figurehead DDs separately from their bases.

The few special tools mentioned above can be purchased from Micro-Mark on the Internet, and are useful for other model-making purposes.


Shagnasty Supporting Member of TMP26 Sep 2019 10:04 a.m. PST

Very nice work though I think I'll stick to l/2400 scale.

Personal logo chicklewis Supporting Member of TMP28 Sep 2019 7:59 a.m. PST

That's quite a bit of work, but I understand the attractions of a waterline model.

At 1/6000th, is the entire model under an inch in length?

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