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"15mm Rebasing" Topic

17 Posts

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wmyers19 Apr 2019 8:10 p.m. PST

I have some 15mm figures that I want to rebase. I am not sure the best way to remove them from their old wooden bases (looks like a clear glue but very strong – so probably not hot glue and maybe not even pva).

What is the best way to take them off so I do not break them?

Personal logo Extra Crispy Sponsoring Member of TMP19 Apr 2019 8:27 p.m. PST

Take a test stand and let it stand in water for a few hours. Then try levering the figure off with a utility knife.

Personal logo Saber6 Supporting Member of TMP Fezian19 Apr 2019 8:51 p.m. PST

Soak in warm water.

YogiBearMinis Supporting Member of TMP20 Apr 2019 4:34 a.m. PST

I have a done of this recently. I agree, soak in water for a few hours, then I use a very rigid putty knife (I tried various knives and thicknesses, but the rigid narrow putty knife works best). Before I start with knife I also try to flex the base as much as possible, regardless of its material, in an effort to weaken the glue bond.

Dervel Fezian20 Apr 2019 5:12 a.m. PST

What is the base material?

Soaking can certainly work depending on the glue.

I have done a lot of rebasing of my own and other figures.

If the base is metal and the glue is brittle, bending the metal base with needle nose pliers works

Another useful tool is the exacto wood chisel, if you can carefully get the blade between the figure and the base it works quite well in shaving the figure off. Like the putty knife recommended above, but the sharp edge is thinner and can easily get between the figure and the base.


Personal logo ColCampbell Supporting Member of TMP20 Apr 2019 6:58 a.m. PST

I second both the soaking method and using an Exacto wood chisel. I've had very good success with both.


Waco Joe20 Apr 2019 9:24 a.m. PST

If it is superglue I have had good results freezing the minis for a few hours then using needle nose pliers to pop them off.

wmyers20 Apr 2019 8:22 p.m. PST

Thanks all! The base is "hardboard" – the stuff that is used to make peg board but without the holes.

I will try the soaking method first. I have chisels. I also have needle nose pliers so I can try both. If that doesn't work well, I will try freezing. Oh heck, I can try both at the same time.

goragrad20 Apr 2019 10:31 p.m. PST

With hardboard i would not expect it to be super glue, but one never knows…

Clear epoxy?

At which point soaking should weaken the hardboard.

A possibly cheaper tool would be a utility knife or a box cutter. Blades for utility knife or single edge razor blades for the box cutter are usually cheaper than hobby products or chisels.

You can then scrape the glue form the figure bases.

battle master21 Jun 2019 4:18 a.m. PST

soaking bases in water for a few hours is the trick on MDF or even cardboard bases. Surprisingly, once dried the bases can be re-used: even the cardboard ones

1ngram23 Jun 2019 6:09 a.m. PST

When you rebase use the glue "Copydex" You will never have the same problem again in the future as it peels off unline almost every other glue. Its normally used for carpets or similar and can be found in any DIY shop like B+Q etc.

wmyers03 Jul 2019 9:30 a.m. PST

How well does Copydex hold up? Will the figures come off the base through normal use, jostling, etc?

Warspite110 Jul 2019 1:56 a.m. PST

Personally I use clear glue (trade name UHU) to mount figures and I have no problems with either the figure either staying on or getting it off again much later. One advantage to the clear glue is that a little will squidge out of the sides and this can be used to mould the figure into the base prior to flocking. This little 'shoulder' of glue around the base gives extra strength but also someone to cut through first, if removing. I cut the shoulder on all four sides and then slide the blade underneath.

I use a thicker type craft knife (X-acto or similar) to remove. Do not try to lever off with a thin scalpel blade, like a Swann and Morton, as it will almost certainly snap.

My bases are 3mm MDF and you can actually tear this off and then sandpaper down any wood material still stuck to the figures' feet.


bobm195911 Jul 2019 5:08 a.m. PST

wmyers…I use Copydex all the time with 15 & 28mm. Never had a figure come loose in play or transit. It's actually latex rubber so put plenty on and the figures become sat in their own "cup" of rubber. You've got to leave it a fair few hours to completely set before handling….especially 28mm cavalry figures.

Personal logo BigRedBat Sponsoring Member of TMP12 Jul 2019 2:17 a.m. PST

Soaking is the way, but it might take 24-48 hours. Best keep the water level low, so that the paint on the minis themselves isn't damaged.

Yesthatphil14 Jul 2019 2:40 a.m. PST


Works well on more base/glue/texture combinations than people think it would.


jamemurp24 Jul 2019 12:31 p.m. PST

If water doesn't work, Simple Green or denatured alcohol work well for knocking out most paints and glues. Acetone is useful for some things, but it is nasty stuff.

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