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"Cleaning 3D models up." Topic

19 Posts

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World War Two on the Land

1,167 hits since 5 Feb 2019
©1994-2019 Bill Armintrout
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mysteron Supporting Member of TMP05 Feb 2019 2:21 a.m. PST

I have just ordered 4 of the newish Morris Trucks From Butlers Printed Models in 15mm for my Jock columns.
Apart from some Modern Machine guns for mounting on my Israel Zelda M113s , these will be my first models produced in this way.

I am just looking for ways to clean these models up mainly dealing with the production ridges . Would a fibre glass burnishing brush work in this regard? Any other tips would be most welcomed.

Many thanks

Fred Cartwright05 Feb 2019 3:03 a.m. PST

I don't think the burnishing brush will work. Something to fill the ridges, either a thin smear of filler or there are paints that you can get that will fill small imperfections, but not tried it myself. Anything you can cover with stowage helps too.

mysteron Supporting Member of TMP05 Feb 2019 5:17 a.m. PST

Thanks Fred. Perhaps the GW liquid green stuff could work ?

martin goddard Sponsoring Member of TMP05 Feb 2019 5:28 a.m. PST

I tried to smooth some 3D models I bought. I found it so time consuming so as to be not worth the effort. We are still at the "dot matrix" stage. there are better prints (shapeways and similar etc) some time but not that cheap.

mysteron Supporting Member of TMP05 Feb 2019 5:40 a.m. PST

I must admit Martin I am not a 3D printed model convert. But I thought I would give it a go for models I can't obtain in any other ranges. The Battlefront model of the Morris truck is expensive and could be waiting for some time as it will be in their back catalogue. Not sure on the QRF offering as some of the moulds are old but the new ones are good models . I think the Morris is one of their, older models.

So I guess its Hobson's choice .

So I thought I would give these 3 D printed models a go .

As Fred suggested , with them being desert models , I can always cover in stowage if everything else fails.

gbowen05 Feb 2019 5:48 a.m. PST

I have had some luck with slow speed grinding on a Dremel. High speed melts the plastic and is not good. Another problem is that grinding too hard will grind off the details. Some casts work better than others. Soviet stuff comes out well as any bad grinding looks like bad welding which actaully makes the models more accurate. My views and a few more hints here

mysteron Supporting Member of TMP05 Feb 2019 5:54 a.m. PST

I am toying with the idea of using the liquid green stuff first and when dried some we sanding using the wife's manicure sanding sticks ( don't tell her ! ) . I will then finish off with the fibre glass pencil. In theory there shouldn't be a lot of surfaces that will require smoothing. The wheels will be fine as is and also the main truck storage deck .

This is all theory on my part as I have only ordered the models today.

@ Gbowen.Most of the specialist sites for 3D advise against the use of power tools because of that very reason as it melts the plastic . Thanks for your input .

TGerritsen05 Feb 2019 7:50 a.m. PST

You could always try a brush on application like smooth on.


Remember that different 3d printers will give different results. I've found the $300 USD type just don't seem to give you the kind of results a nice prosumer model will. Additionally, with FDM printers, the type of filament you use and the detail settings you use can make a big difference.

I'm not sure what level of detail Butlers uses, but I've seen some of Bashy's models in play, and he usually gets pretty good results. I played a Team Yankee game recently where the guy had all fully painted 15mm bashy models and at table distance, you really couldn't tell they were FDM prints, and even close up you had to really look to see that they were 3D. Acceptability, however, is in the eye of the beholder.

I use two 3d printers these days, a mid level Robox Cel, which is a bit pricier, but I like it much better than my old Replicator 2. A heated bed is so much better and it takes all kinds of filament. My favorite is Polyester, which gives nice layers. I only use this printer for objects, bases and buildings, however.

For miniatures, I use a Form 2 liquid resin SLA printer. These are pretty pricey and require a fairly laborious alcohol soak and UV light curing but the results are amazing. Most of the time the miniatures I get are indistinguishable from resin prints with far more accuracy. I'll have to post some images of my SLA prints over the weekend when I have time.

I will be running a 15mm Battletech game at Little Wars with a bunch of SLA printed unseen mechs. They look pretty amazing so far. If you are there, come on by and check them out.


mysteron Supporting Member of TMP05 Feb 2019 8:52 a.m. PST

Thanks.I will give that stuff a try and ordered some from a European company as I live in the UK. If I get satisfactory results it could open up a new ball game with a wider range of models to choose from .

darthfozzywig Supporting Member of TMP05 Feb 2019 3:57 p.m. PST

I will be running a 15mm Battletech game at Little Wars with a bunch of SLA printed unseen mechs.

Let's see some pics of these minis! Make believers out of folks! 😜

Jeffers06 Feb 2019 1:23 p.m. PST

As stated elsewhere, I've quite a few 20mm BPMs and find they scrub up well. I don't drybrush or wash models, so with my paint style they lines are not that prominent when painted and (to my eyes) non-existent on the table. I wouldn't use them for display, but for playing they are robust and cheap.

Uncle Goblin07 Feb 2019 4:52 a.m. PST

Try these two articles, maybe they'll help:



mysteron Supporting Member of TMP07 Feb 2019 5:04 a.m. PST

Thanks "Uncle Goblin " those links are very useful. Something I will have to weigh up is all this extra effort and cost going to be worth it? For me that is going to be the deal breaker going forward, if I am to become a convert to 3D printed models. At the moment I can't say I am .So we will have to see.

UshCha07 Feb 2019 10:16 a.m. PST

I have to agree with Jeffers, they are for players not painters/modellers. Just painting/coloring a 1/144 BMP-1 platoon ideal for the table, no cleaning up required for distance viewing.

Munster08 Feb 2019 1:08 a.m. PST

To be honest, it depends on the printer set up and the file design. with careful set up my $US200 printer can print 6-15mm miniatures with barely noticeable lines (at least as good a metal casts).

Doing so means understanding the printer and adjusting all the settings, and designing (or cutting up) the file using the limits of the printer, rather than just pushing the button (ie minimising surfaces that are not in the x, y z plane)

Butler does fast, very simple prints, others such as Lin Zhang do models that are virtually true models, even at 28mm scale

mysteron Supporting Member of TMP08 Feb 2019 2:31 a.m. PST

Thanks guys for your input.

It looks like I am going to have a challenge to turn a "Sows Ear " into a decent model . As a modeller first, gamer second I do have my own high standards to maintain.

Andy ONeill08 Feb 2019 2:49 a.m. PST

Not used em for this purpose but fwiw. I have some modelling sanding sticks and a gizmo intended to sand rounded things. Both are good.
Not sure whether modelling sticks would be any better than ones for nails.

Dr faust has a video about making your own bow sander tool.

Canuckinator08 Feb 2019 4:08 p.m. PST

Another tool you could consider is the Modifi3d clean up tool. It's not cheap, but might be worth investing in if you plan to go full bore with the 3D route. Their newest version of the tool is on Kickstarter right now: link

mysteron Supporting Member of TMP10 Feb 2019 3:59 a.m. PST

Thanks guys. I think that Moified3 tool is something to consider if I become a 3D printed model convert.

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