"Dog Boat Gun configuration?" Topic

Ok so I know very little about Navy Warfare. I bought Cruel Seas and assembled everything following what information I could see on the boxes and the Rule Book.

I think I have placed the 6 pdrs in the wrong positions on my Dog Boats.

I found a full colour photo of the automatic 6 pdr on the foredeck so presume the one with the shield goes on the back? Or maybe they could have both automatic at fore and aft positions depending on the time of the War?

DA, the 6pdr with the shield goes near the stern. Because there's no illustrated assembly instructions with the kits, I've resorted to going online to find line drawings and have printed those out for clarifying where equipment and weapons are positioned on these models.

Here's a pic of my completed Dog boats -

TMP link

With the two types of 6pdr provided the automatic goes forward, the manual gun with the shield goes aft. Later boats were fitted with automatics forward and aft.You can refit your boats when Warlord release their weapon packs (announced at Boot Camp yesterday)

Are you guys having trouble keeping the guns in place? The pegs seem too short. I dont want to glue them as I want to be able to swap

Joe, so far mine are holding fast – but I super-glued them in place.

I've read the on-going discussion about swapping out weapons – how important or practical is this? More handling of these small bits will probably end up resulting in more damage to them IMO.

I'm attaching the most-common array of weapons to a model (for my collection's common/chosen time period – '42), and then comfortable to let the rest of any changes occur via the card stats.

As an example, on my merchant tanker I left the optional cannon off. Players have had no issue with referencing its card for finding and measuring from the firing point on the model.

Gamer's Tip – we've been using a laser tracker to check LOS/F from off each model, and to align along the length of each launched torpedo for projecting its course forward.

I can see practical use in having some model pieces removable – like the masts, and maybe separate superstructures that have mast mounted to them (rare-earth magnets for attaching cabin houses, like on the big models, etc.), but this out of concern for protecting these protruding pieces, or to make the boats shorter overall, for easier storing/transporting.

@FlyXwire, thanks your photo was the reason why I went back and checked for online references. Didn't find much of use though.

@David Manley, thanks also, that was what I was thinking but followed WarLords example when I assembled them.

I superglued my guns on and have painted the decks so this is going to be a bitch to correct. I have already had to scratch build two missing vickers gun mounts. So am feeling a little peeved off with this.

If you can find a copy of "Gunboat 638" by L C Reynolds, who served as Midshipman, 1st Lieutenant and later as commander of the eponymous vessel, it is a useful reference for Fairmile Ds. 658 remained a pure gunboat during her career, but did have her armament updated as the war progressed. The book also gives some useful scenarios for actions against axis coastal forces in the eastern Med.

Thanks Pontius, I will have a look for that.

Alas many people are being caught out by Warlord incorrectly building the model used on their box art and advertising

Flywire,
Swapping out guns is probably not very important. That said, one of the things I like about this scale is you can tell the difference in guns. I really fancy MGBs in the Med so would like to be able to have 2pdrs in the front and 20mms in the back and then be able to convert to 6 pounders. Important? No but I will probably try magnets for the Fairmiles as they upgraded guns throughout the war. The question is how hard would it be to countersink the base magnet into the hull?

DA THB, if there are missing parts to your boats, contact Warlord- I suspect they will replace them without too much fuss.

Cheers

Joe

Joe, you'll be able to drill these resin hulls very easily (they're somewhat soft as far as resin goes). I've used a pin vise to drill out most of the attachment holes, and/or to clean them up post-painting.

Maybe some helpful advice for those about to paint their models – consider painting the hulls and their decks without at first attaching the guns, because having them in place before painting disrupts your brush stroking and limits access to close detailing.

Another idea, is to paint the guns and crew figs with their bottoms (with the crew figs by their feet) attached onto double-stick tape (like that spongy mounting tape that's sold). You can do a whole row of multiple crew models stuck onto a holding board with this type of tape. When finished with your painting, dullcote them for durable assembly handling, pop them off, and then super-glue them into place. Most liquid super-glue dries clear, and you can brush on clear matte around the figures after things are dried to eliminate any gloss, but, TEST YOUR Super-glue first, to make sure it doesn't "cloud" after drying either.

Well I managed to pop my guns off without any damage so just have to touch up the paintwork.

@Joe , yes I will do that but in the same order I had a winter crewed 76mm Antitank gun supplied with summer crew. It took a few emails with the supplier to get that sorted but am still waiting for the correct figures. I used white glue to attach my scratch built guns on the Dog boats so they will come off easy, I hope.