The "diceless" aspect is because each side uses a deck of ordinary playing cards to determine initiative, the no. of action points (AP) each player gets in his action phase, and for shooting and melee resolution. In case of the same value card being drawn by each player, the winner is determined by the suite priority of spades, hearts, diamonds and clubs. If there is still a tie, then the players draw another card in an effort to break the tie. The turn ends immediately when a joker is drawn and force morale and casualty removal checks are then done.
It costs one action point to move a figure. Foot move 6" and cav. move 9" per move/6" in terrain. However a figure can make a 2nd move for 3 more action points and a 3rd move for 5 more action points. A figure can fire only once during the turn, and its turn is over as soon as it fires. Shooting expends an AP also. Fire is resolved by the firer & the target drawing card(s) and comparing them. The highest score wins. If the target wins, the shot is a miss. If the firer wins, the target is "down" and placed on its side. Different states of cover allow the target to draw more cards and play the highest one. Rapid fire weapons can shoot more than once in their fire phase. Muzzle-loading small arms take 2 AP to shoot. Pistol range is 6", smoothbore musket range is 18". All other small arms ranges are full table. Rapid fire weapons are allowed one shot at full table range or 2 (or 3) shots at a lesser range depending on the weapon being fired.
Melee is resolved by the attacker drawing 2 cards and keeping the higher and the defender drawing only one card. The high card wins and the losing figure is immediately removed as a casualty. "Down" figures attacked in melee are immediately removed from the game.
There are six special characteristics mentioned in the rules that a figure could be given if the players want to include them.
In the morale phase, each player checks to see if his casualties will cause his force to withdraw from the battle. Leaders are rated as 1 2 or 3 and allow 1 2 or 3 cards to be picked (keeping the highest one) and each side has a Motivation Rating that factors into this break check as well. The higher the motivation rating, the more casualties a force can take before it breaks.
In the casualty phase, each player draws a card for each "down" figure. Red suite drawn = dead and removed from the table. If not red, the figure is turned upright and is OK/active again.
The core rules are only 10 pages in length and the rest of the book is scenarios and special/optional rules for the different eras. The author's main goal throughout the book is to keep it simple. There is a Napoleonic scenario, a rifle era Zulu War scenario, then things shift forward to the twentieth century, WW2 and the Cold War. There is even a sci-fi/pulp action scenario.
Tanks have an armor rating and armor piercing weapons have an armor piercing rating based on whether they are light, medium or heavy anti-tank guns. Combat is simple & resolved quickly. HE weapons have a blast radius that effects the enemy within it.
Having just gotten this today, I obviously haven't played it yet. It really does seem to be the skirmish gaming companion to Neil Thomas' book "One Hour Wargames". The concepts are very basic with card draw resolution for all aspects of combat. If you don't like something, it can be easily changed or tweaked to your liking. It will surely provide an interesting quick game for those who are in need of it. This system is really not intended to compete with meatier rules such as Sharp Practice, Bolt Action or Chain of Command, but rather as a much simpler alternative to those.
paints brigs for the British fleet.
