"Is decal solution necessary? Your experiences?" Topic

So I'm about to do decals on a huge amount of 40k stuff. Haven't done decals on models in many years.

I'm trying to arm myself with as much information as possible before I get started. I know about the importance of painting the area in a gloss varnish finish for better adhesion. I generally get how the water slide ones work. I also know that a little dish liquid can help the decal slide off the backing.

But what about decal solution? Saw this mentioned in several tutorials.

Is it necessary? Can you apply decals effectively without it?

How much of this is necessary vs. unnecessary, if anything?

Flat surface, should be no problem without the decal solution. If you are going over a curve it's recomended.

There is also "decal set" that's used after they adhere, I do use that.

Take a look at Youtube. Well worth 10 minutes of your time.

The gloss coat makes for a smooth surface and prevents silvering once the decal sets. I'd still use both a solution and setting agent. After it's all set and dried, another gloss coat and then semi or flat coating (depending on your preference)

From my experience, any surface that isn't flat that you're planning to apply decals to will benefit from a decal solution/softener.

I always use it.

Even if the surface is flat and very glossy decal solutions can really make the decal look as if it's part of the actual paint work. Given that it's not expensive to buy I would recommend using it every time.

If you are applying decals to curves or compound curves then you really do need it.

I use Micro Sol and Micro Set.

I always use Micro Sol and Micro Set. You probably don't need it every time, but the time you need it and DON'T use it will haunt you forever.

Besides, it is pretty cheap, considering a bottle will last me years.

Great advice folks, thanks!

Decal solution can make the decals very brittle and break up (depending on said solution. If the surface is smooth-just glue 'em on.

…See Skipper John.

I have started to use them and never looked back since.

I regret having thought that it was not all that necessary.

Ditto what repaint said. I didn't use it for years, thinking it was not necessary. Now I use it as a matter of course, even on flat surfaces, and get a much better result.

Yes, always.

Apply gloss to surface you wish to put the decal on.
Use decal solution to soften the decal film. Most solutions work fine, one part or two part, but follow the directions. (Duh!)
If you intend to do a final coat of Dullcote or similar, coat the decal AGAIN with a brush on varnish first. In fact, do this anyway to protect it while being handled.

Many of the Battlefront books show pretty pictures of their 15mm tanks. Unfortunately, many of those pictures also show where proper decal techniques were NOT used. They show a lot of silvering under the decal film.

I've been building plastic models for over 30 years. YES use decal solution! My method is to glosscoat first (the whole model, to eliminate different textures in the finishing stage…I certainly notice that!), apply decals. Use setting solution, apply another glosscoat over the decals (I airbrush mine, though brush-on works as well if you don't want to go through the trouble), THEN dullcoat. If properly executed & you use decent decals, the decal should look "painted" on. GW tends to have pretty decent decals.

Many of the Battlefront books show pretty pictures of their 15mm tanks. Unfortunately, many of those pictures also show where proper decal techniques were NOT used. They show a lot of silvering under the decal film.

Not just Battlefront. Its surprising what slips through in studio jobs. I remember seeing some pretty questionable stuff from GW's studio stuff too. You would think they knew better…

Damon.

Hey folks,

Thanks for all the great advice.

I did get the Micro Set and Sol.

Only issue I had was with how much of the Set to use before putting the decal on the model. In order to be able to move the decal around to get it in the right position, I feel like I had to use too much Set.

Also, when I was dabbing the decal to remove any remaining water it was moving the decal out of position.

I used the Sol as well which is designed to be put on the decal after it's in position to lock it in place.

I noticed on a few of the decals I had very fine but visible stress wrinkles. Not severe but like I said visible up close. It wasn't the image of the decal that was wrinkled but just around the edges.

Any suggestions? Could I be using too much decal solution? I know that once the Sol is put on over the top you're not supposed to touch the decal after that point because it's so softened by the Sol.