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"Would ‘Masonite’ Warp Less With A DRY ERASE Surface Underneath?" Topic


11 Posts

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Action Log

12 Sep 2018 11:01 a.m. PST
by Editor in Chief Bill

  • Changed title from "Would ‘Masonite’ Warp Less With A DRY ERASE Surface Bottom?" to "Would ‘Masonite’ Warp Less With A DRY ERASE Surface Underneath?"
  • Changed starttime from
    12 Sep 2018 6:31 a.m. PST
    to
    12 Sep 2018 6:31 a.m. PST


400 hits since 11 Sep 2018
©1994-2018 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

Personal logo Cacique Caribe Supporting Member of TMP12 Sep 2018 5:31 a.m. PST

If one were to turn these hardboard lap desks over, with the dry erase surface facing down, and then proceed to build terrain as normal on the uncoated surface …

Would the hardboard with the single-sided coating warp 1) more, 2) less or 3) the same as if the terrain was built on hardboard without any such coating underneath?

auction

Thanks

Dan

Personal logo Zeelow Supporting Member of TMP12 Sep 2018 5:49 a.m. PST

Hi, CC: Try coating the 'masonite' with a couple of coats of gesso. I've had success with no warping.

Personal logo Cacique Caribe Supporting Member of TMP12 Sep 2018 5:53 a.m. PST

Z

Any specific type (or brand) of gesso? Or is gesso all the same basic mix?

Thanks

Dan

Personal logo Sgt Slag Supporting Member of TMP12 Sep 2018 6:17 a.m. PST

PVA will likely achieve the same result, for less money. I've found that gluing the flocking material with PVA on one side only, will lead to warping, within 6-12 months of completion, using vinyl floor tile bases, double thickness. I have resisted, thus far, coating the underside with PVA, but I am seriously considering it, as a preventative step. Need to get busy and try it. Only problem is that I won't know if it works, for 12 months… Cheers!

Personal logo Dervel Supporting Member of TMP Fezian12 Sep 2018 6:44 a.m. PST

found this thought it might be fun to share:

PDF link

Personal logo Zeelow Supporting Member of TMP12 Sep 2018 6:51 a.m. PST

CC: I've always used the Liquitex brand. Back-in-the-day paint products were labeled with the contents in the material. The more inert compounds the better. The more "heavy bodied" = the best. And don't try to use just a p*** coat. Put it on full-bodied. You'll be happy. If I am wrong, I'll stop eating fried frog legs for breakfast.

Re. Sgt Slag: Always coat both sides of the masonite. The bottom side of masonite is the most absorbent in my experience. Actually seal top, bottom, and the sides.

Personal logo Doctor X Supporting Member of TMP12 Sep 2018 8:53 a.m. PST

In my experience both sides have to be coated to have your best chance of no warping.

Personal logo miniMo Supporting Member of TMP12 Sep 2018 10:05 a.m. PST

In my experience, masonite warps less when I just use a sheet aluminum instead. Jigsaw with a metal cutting blade zips right through it.

Personal logo Cacique Caribe Supporting Member of TMP12 Sep 2018 11:37 a.m. PST

MiniMo: "masonite warps less when I just use a sheet aluminum instead"

I'm not following. They come with aluminum?

Is that what's underneath the dry erase coated side of those lap boards that I'm talking about? Or do you mean I should add (glue?) an aluminum sheet to the uncoated side somehow?

auction

picture

picture

Dan
PS. And, if those lap boards work, they would be the perfect size (9" x 12") for storing inside my smaller Sterilite plastic bins! Specially with the rounded corners.

Personal logo miniMo Supporting Member of TMP12 Sep 2018 1:18 p.m. PST

Yes, the thinnest and lightest warp-resistent material I've come up with is sheet aluminum sold in small sheets in the big-box hardward stores. Glue masonite or any other material of choice on top of it, or just paint and flock directly on it.

Personal logo Cacique Caribe Supporting Member of TMP13 Sep 2018 6:53 p.m. PST

Okay. I went ahead and ordered one to try out.

Dan

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