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"Advice needed about HaT "paintable" plastic figures " Topic


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797 hits since 13 Jun 2018
©1994-2018 Bill Armintrout
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Tango01 Supporting Member of TMP13 Jun 2018 1:15 p.m. PST

… British Soldier Under Wellington, 1808-1814

"The expression "scum of the earth" uttered by Arthur Wellesley, Duke of Wellington, has become etched in history as a great commander's miserable opinion of his men. In a letter to Henry, Third Earl Bathurst, from Huarte Spain, on 2 July, 1813, Wellington wrote, "we have in the service the scum of the Earth as common soldiers."

His opinion did not change with time. On 4 November, 1813, he declared in a conversation with Philip Henry, Fifth Earl Stanhope, "I don't mean to say that there is no difference in the composition or therefore the feeling of the French army and ours. The French system of conscription brings together a fair sample of all classes; ours is composed of the scum of the Earth—the mere scum of the Earth. It is only wonderful that we should be able to make so much out of them afterward. The English soldiers are fellows who have enlisted for drink—that is the plain fact—they have all enlisted for drink."

In his new addition to the University of Oklahoma Press' Campaigns and Commanders series, All for the King's Shilling, Edward J. Coss, assistant professor of military history at the U.S. Army Command and General Staff College, Fort Belvoir, Virginia, tries to bring to light the soldier's real motives for enlisting in the British army in the 19th century, as well as the real reason that Wellington's "scum of the earth" won so many victories against the Imperial French army. In the process of researching fourteen British line regiments, four cavalry regiments, and the Artillery Corps in the National Archives at Kew (formerly called the Public Record Office) outside London, Coss found that the majority of their personnel were laborers, drafted because they could not find any work in the cities. A great rise in the British population, combined with the increasing use of machines in industrial production left many workers facing prospects of starvation. For many, the only alternative was to enlist in one of the king's regiments. Of those unemployed enlistees, 48 percent were of Irish origin…."
Full review here
link

Amicalement
Armand

paul liddle13 Jun 2018 1:15 p.m. PST

I am painting a box of HaT French Line infantry set 8095. The figures are made in a rubbery plastic unlike most other sets and it is supposed to be paintable without priming.

My question is, can I spray varnish them. I am worried that they might stay sticky forever like Reaper Bones if I do.

If anyone has any advice about this specific type of plastic I would be grateful.

bobspruster13 Jun 2018 2:23 p.m. PST

If the figures are painted, then the varnish shouldn't be an issue. Do wash the figs before painting.

davbenbak Supporting Member of TMP14 Jun 2018 7:29 a.m. PST

Paul, other than the missing eagle bearer, this is a pretty good set. My issue with the soft plastic they use is trimming flash and mold lines. The best solution I've found is using a hot needle. I've primed with both regular Krylon as well as spray on white gesso. Both worked well. As far as sealing them you might want to try "the dip". It's a mix of Future floor wax and wood stain.


Too bad you got hit by the bug. There are a lot of folks out there who could give advise.

Personal logo miniMo Supporting Member of TMP14 Jun 2018 10:29 a.m. PST

I prime all plastics with Krylon, that sticks to bendy plastic very nicely. Once that's on, you can use any types of paint and varnish.

paul liddle14 Jun 2018 11:13 a.m. PST

Thanks all, I have some Future floor wax so I,ll give it a try. I like the glossy toy soldier look too!.

John Leahy14 Jun 2018 5:10 p.m. PST

Do not mix Future (now called Pledge Floor care finish-multi surface finish) with wood stain. Use ink. I use calligraphy ink that dries water-proof with Pledge. Using it for about 10 to 12 years. Great stuff!

Anton Ryzbak14 Jun 2018 9:17 p.m. PST

I have had great success using Armory Flat spray over Future if you want to kill the gloss

paul liddle15 Jun 2018 12:40 p.m. PST

Good tips gents, thanks.

Personal logo Bobgnar Supporting Member of TMP16 Jun 2018 10:07 p.m. PST

For soft rubber figures, I spin them in a rock polish machine, very fine grit. Then paint. I will try Krylon prime next time. Then finish with original dip = MinWax polyurethane stain. Tudor satin, but if you like a glossy finish, use gloss.

Personal logo Sgt Slag Supporting Member of TMP18 Jun 2018 10:55 a.m. PST

Future/Pledge Floor Shine is basically acrylic paint, minus the pigment. It will mix with acrylic paints beautifully, making a wash of any color based on the craft acrylic paint you mix with it. By the way, this technique is known as Magic Wash, not The Dip (Minwax Polyshades Urethane Stain: Royal Walnut -- dark, muddy brown, gives a just dug-up, or in the trenches look; Tudor -- dead black).

The Minwax Polyshades Tudor color is usually only found in hardware stores -- don't know why, but it is rare to find it anywhere else. The Tudor is pure black. The Royal Walnut (my preferred color), is a dark brown, giving the figure more of a dirty appearance, one whose clothes haven't been washed in a while, and a guy who hasn't bathed in a while, either -- a working stiff, like a trench digger.

Using Royal Walnut on yellowed plastic Skeletons give them a just dug up, appearance: paint the bits that are not bone, leaving the bone portions untouched. Then apply the Royal Walnut. After they completely dry, you only need to matte clear coat them, if you do not like the semi-gloss of the Satin.

This technique will work surprisingly well on plastic Army Men figures, green, gray, and tan. If you paint the flesh, and weapons, then apply Royal Walnut, you will be surprised how good they look. Army Men figures are great for practicing your techniques on, as well.

WARNING: The Dip will work exceptionally well on soft plastic figures, however, it may flake off, over time, with flexing of the plastic. Try to handle the miniatures by their bases, at all times, and store them as if they were made of metal: avoid knocking them about; do not pile them in handfuls, in a box… Cheers!

wmyers08 Jul 2018 10:28 p.m. PST

Sgt. Slag, is 'Magic Wash' more durable?

(I have used Army Painter's dip on harder plastic figures (ie Pegasus) but not on any older Airfix polyethylene figure. I always matte coat them after, too.)

Personal logo Sgt Slag Supporting Member of TMP13 Jul 2018 7:21 a.m. PST

I've only used Magic Wash sparingly, to be honest. I really don't know. You will need to experiment.

The Minwax Polyshades lasted several years -- it will not rub off within months. It is so easy, which is why it is my preferred method.

The Magic Wash is more labor intensive because I have to mix the desired color of acrylic paint with the Pledge Floor Finish, and I need to experiment to get the ratio/color just right.. Minwax is ready out of the can -- just shake/stir, and brush on…

I only use Magic Wash when necessary. My (20+) 60mm Vikings pressed into service as Frost Giants have been painted, and Magic Washed for several years now, however they receive little handling, compared to my Army Men figures, which were Dip'ed roughly 20 years ago; they began flaking off around five years ago, with it getting progressively worse with recent handling.

You will need to give Magic Wash a try, and see what happens. Cheers!

companycmd Supporting Member of TMP17 Jul 2018 6:36 a.m. PST

Americana matte spray solves all my issues with painting plastics before or after. However, the industry has CHANGED formulas. You may need to get several different brands to find the one that works for you; also, plastic company not just HaT have changed plastics formulas. Testing is the only way to get the answers.

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