" Italian Independence wars" Topic

How do folks get yellow details to pop, with one or two coats of paint, when painting over dark? (Over dark blue or black I have always used white as a base for the finish coat of yellow.) I have discovered opaque titanium white for straps and belting, which ended my similar difficulty with white over dark.

Is there a fine grained opaque yellow that works?

DA BUG

How do folks get yellow details to pop, with one or two coats of paint, when painting over dark? (Over dark blue or black I have always used white as a base for the finish coat of yellow.) I have discovered opaque titanium white for straps and belting, which ended my similar difficulty with white over dark.

Is there a fine grained opaque yellow that works?

I never use yellow on top of black, I put down a coat of medium brown and then paint the yellow over that.

Drybrush with white then use yellow.

Black base, mid Brown for the area to become yellow, then 50% mid Brown with 50% Yellow, then yellow..add a bit of White to the yellow to highlight

I haven't found a yellow that covers very well – the closest are the yellows in Reaper HD range

Vallejo Yellow Ochre covers very well and provides a great base if you want to paint a brighter yellow over the top

Good luck

John

opaque titanium white

Which particular paint do you use ?

Thanks

John

Golden brown as a base, then Liquitex yellow.

I always paint white then yellow on top.

In response to jwebster, I have been thrilled with 'golden fluid acrylics' titanium white #2380-1, its glossy, but if you don't like that, a matt coat afterwards will do the trick.

I most appreciate the replies to my question, but it seems that yellow is always going to be a two stage operation.

Tom

Correction: at least two stages.

And a caveat: the smaller the scale, the fewer the stages should be.

I had to strip and reprimer some 1/285 F-86 Sabres once, because it took so many coats of white and yellow to make opaque stripes that the thickness of the paint was visible to the naked eye. My solution in that case was complicated: white undercoat, tint large areas with yellow acrylic ink (which is very thin), then brush on the aluminum silver, leaving intact stripes of yellow. (All this to avoid tiny decals, but that's a different gripe.)

- Ix

I always undercoat yellow with white first

I asked a year or two ago if anyone knew of a yellow and a red paint that would cover dark blue in one coat. Extra Crispy responded with Cartoon Color.

Here is a link to the website:

link

Their yellow and red have both worked quite well for me. Unfortunately, the top of the home page says they are not making paints at the present time. It may be worth contacting Van Griffith, as suggested, to see if this is temporary or permanent.

Fortunately I have probably a lifetime supply of both colors.

Before discovering this paint, I undercoated with any white acrylic paint.

Tom

I use Vallejo Panzer Yellow (whatever they call it) as a base coat for yellow over dark colors as it is quite opaque. I then highlight it with whatever yellow I am using.

Repeating what everyone else said: paint a buffer coat of white or cream or tan first. Yellow pigment is generally translucent.

Quality artist paints that are specifically opaque have less of a problem with this, but when thinned to the consistency preferred for miniatures, the buffer coat is usually still needed.

Same with red.

I use an enamel flat yellow, like Testors or Humbrol.

I use one of the old GW Foundation paints, and then multiple coats of Foundry yellow.

Try Revell Gelb (yellow) 361 (15) Goes down over black in one coat. Superb coverage.

Best yellow I've ever tried.

I use GW Averland Sunset as base, followed by a couple of coats of yellow. A trick that works is to mix a small amount of Vallejo Ivory. It helps with coverage.

Foundry Yellow triad, or sometimes the Ochre triad to give a less bright/in your face yellow