"Sash and Saber vs Perry Napoleonic Miniatures" Topic

I am speaking both 28mm and 40mm ranges.

I am currently painting some Sash and Saber 40mm Napoleonic and I find them a bit difficult to paint. Are the Perry's any easier?

Any input about which maker is easier to paint up would be appreciated and why you think that is.

Although, some touchstones of ease of painting on a miniature have to b:

1. Depth of sculpting relief; especially piping, straps and all other areas of a Napoleonic miniature which might be frustrating to reach or paint.

2. Consistency of details from figure to figure in a similar troop type. I dont like it when the shoulder strap on one miniature in a given type such as French infantry is absent on another similar figure.

3. Ease of getting at bits with a paint brush such as backpack or rifle.

4. Miniature takes several layers of paint well and doesn't lose it's detail.

I have painted both types and like the Sash and Saber more. They are more economical and the cavalry are much more solid. I use both types in my Napoleonic games.

In my opinion, Perrys are better for detail, anatomy and consistency in all 4 of the key points. However, while the 28mm are cheaper, the 40 mm are more expensive than Sash and Sabre. I believe that they can share a table but not a unit. I have done this at 28mm but not 40mm.

Calpe are supposedly easy to paint but they are still filling in their non-Prussian ranges.

My BrigadeGames range -

link

+1 ancientsgamer

My painting style works better with Perry then Sash& Saber. Painting Austrian Napoleonics, I find that the bayonet 'frogs' and straps on the S&S are harder to delineate then on the Perry figures. I love a mix of manufacturers and have various Old Glory, Front Rank, Foundry, Perry, Essex and even Hinchliffe and Minifigs hiding somewhere, although except for command, I rarely mix companies within a unit.

The S&S figures are slighter then most, but their poses are excellent and they are consistent in size and details (as are Perry). I am irked that the 2nd edition old glory figures, that would otherwise fit just so with S&S, have larger heads. Particularly with Bell topped shakos, I find that head size and the bulk of the bayonet and muskets decide whether or not manufacturers may be mixed. (as an aside, the slender muskets look so much better but are so fragile)

The Perry figures seem to be designed to allow easy definition of detail and stand up to layers of paint well. I don't use Army painter techniques so can't comment on which manufacturer's products would yield better results.

I vary styles between manufacturers, because I find that , for example, Front Rank and S&S require different painting sequences to get the troops ready to go expeditiously. Good luck with your figures, we are spoiled by the excellent choices available.