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"Joint compund as putty" Topic

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563 hits since 24 Mar 2018
©1994-2019 Bill Armintrout
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14Bore25 Mar 2018 3:06 p.m. PST

I see lots of suggestions to add parts to miniatures with Green stuff, never tried or seen it. But I get all the joint compund I want and know it sticks to metal well thought to try it. Had to add points to saddle blankets ( Russian hussars) so took a exaco knife and formed a point to rounded saddle blanket, primed it now getting ready to paint. This was on 15mm figures but see no reason it wouldn't work on larger ones. It after drying can be sanded or filed to shape.

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian25 Mar 2018 3:55 p.m. PST

Does it crack as it shrinks?

When dry, does it crumble when handled?

Does it take paint well?

If it passes those tests, it should be great.

14Bore25 Mar 2018 4:34 p.m. PST

No, and the amount I used was barely a utility knife full. Spackle even on walls will not crack unless to much or drys to fast. Under normal conditions it won't and even if it did ( on a wall doing what you are supposed to do with it) just add another coat to fill them in.
Joint compound is used on metal corner beads so assumed it would stick on unpainted metal, or painted metal actually.
Of course it paints well.
Will get all figures done and will report here.
Had 6 Russians and changing 10 Prussians to add to them.

goragrad25 Mar 2018 7:49 p.m. PST

It is a plaster, so wont be as strong as green stuff.

Should work well enough.

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian25 Mar 2018 8:40 p.m. PST

It is a plaster, so wont be as strong as green stuff.

If your figure takes a tumble, it might need a rebuild and repaint.

laptot26 Mar 2018 6:49 a.m. PST

Durham's Waterputty would be stronger though takes longer to dry.
I've been a drywaller for 30 years and joint compound has serious limitations esp. if trying to bond with non-porous surfaces such as metal. It actually does not stick well to corner bead. What holds it there is the key that is pushed through all the holes in the bead. Tapers who know what they'er doing cover bead with fiberglass tape to reduce compound failure on bead. Bead that is bumped chips and I fix these all the time.

Thinned it works well over ridged foam and foamcore, but it must be primed to have any strength. That said it's still delicate and chips easily. Perhaps saturating dried compound with super thin CA would do the trick.

If I were doing 14bore's project, I would use card stock and PVA, possibly then strengthening with thin CA and finally filling any seams with autobody paste. For anything requiring significant 3d modeling on a figure, I'd stick with traditional two-part sculpting materials.

14Bore26 Mar 2018 10:17 a.m. PST

I don't see it happening, though I did add a little width of the shakos to look more Russian than Prussian and the saddle cloth is hard to get to anyway.
I have been finishing drywall for 30 some years but not a everyday job.
Wouldn't hurt to take a unused figure do something like what I'm doing and try to bang it about.

14Bore30 Mar 2018 2:34 p.m. PST

I have another Prussian Hussar regt I am going to Russian, will try to see how well it is to chip off.

14Bore08 Apr 2018 1:44 p.m. PST

Trying it again on 17 Minifig 2 figures, 15mm. Coating around shako to widen tops in Russian style and had to point saddle blankets in 1/2. It stays actually better than I expected filing and scaping off what I don't want. You can remove all but a trace and it stays on exactly as needed. Am priming with gesso then.

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