"for doing 6mm " Topic

what should I look for in a 3d printer. Just for me not for mass production.

Wanho I3 Version X. Highest version you can get at least V2 could be a good bet. You neeed to be able to print at 0,1mm layer height and for 6mm perhaps a bit less. Some do 0,05mm but they can be expensive. I do 1/144 and we use 0,1mm layer height and its OK. This would be a bit grainier for 6mm, depends how fussy you are and also the detail of the STL files you are going to use.

Are you designing your own models in CADDS?

not at first,I plan on learning as I go.

Your best bet is the old fashioned way with molding and casting.

As mentioned, 3d printers won't have the resolution for 6m or less, they will look poor. If you have unlimited funds, a top of the line printer may help, but seems like overkill to me.

A small pot of 2 part rtv (room temperature vulcanizing, meaning it sets at room temperature without the need of an oven or such) silicon and a small pot of polyurethane resin will set you back less than $100 USD and should do hundreds of 6mm figures.

If you get heat tolerant rtv you can also cast metal into it. Again a small pot will no set you back a fortune. You can buy metal from a hobby or casting supply store, or simply use bar solder, available from most hardware stores and mechanic/car supply stores. You can simply heat a piece of the metal in an old metal spoon or ladle over a burner (not on the stove, do it out side, but be careful not to start a fire). Simply pour the metal into your closed mold (clamp it closed between two bits of board, never hold it closed, after dusting with talc power), give it a tap or two, wait a couple of mins (you can be doing another mold while you wait) then open. 6mm figures!!!

Which ever way you go, to make a mold simply press your figure half way into a block of plasticine (if you have kids, you can steal theirs!), then stand some flattened plasticine around it to make 4 walls, leaving a about 20mm between the figures and the wall. Press the back end of a pencil hear and there to make marks so you can easily put the mold together later. Depending on the silicon you may want to smear some release agent like oil on the figs so they wont stick. Mix your silicon in disposable cups with disposable spoons as per its instructions. Pour into the plasticine cavity. Let cure.

Once done, pull out the mold half. Remove the figures if they are in the plasticine and put them back in the mold. Make plasticine walls around the mold half a smear some cooking oil, petroleum jelly, or a store bought mold separating solution on the surface of the mold so the two halves wont stick together. Mix more silicon and pour into cavity. Let set.

Open up the mould and remove figs and plasticine. You will need to cut in a few small trenches on one side for material (resin or metal) to pour in and flow to the figs, and some tiny lines to allow air to escape from the figs. Cut as few as possible, as more can always be cut later on.

Sculpting the figures to begin with is another matter. But at 6mm you can't go too far wrong. Use some two part epoxy putty and smear a pit to the top of a cork. This will give the fig something to sit on. Just roll tiny bits and stack them up. Sausage legs and arms, rectangle body and ball head. Tiny bits, of course. Use a toothpick to press them together and make marks.A shield from flattened putty, trimmed to shape. Use wire for spears. Just have a go, practice makes perfect.

There are loads of (better written?) tutorials on the subjects of sculpting and molding and casting, both on tmp and the web. Do have a look. It may be both a lot, lot cheaper and better quality for 6mm than a printer and software and you will be learning traditional skills that started this hobby and are still in use today! Also these techniques can then be used for making parts for convention costumes, jewelry, statues or other things you may be into.

Just had another thought. I used to use a product called quicksil by a company called castaldo. It may be just the thing for starting out.

It came as 2 tubs of white and green rubbery putty. You simply take equal parts and knead them together quickly to a uniform colour. Then press into your mold frame (You will need a stronger frame than plasticine an inch of square steel pipe would be good or a small wood frame) then clamp. I can't remember using release agents, it had oil in the silicon and did not stick, as I recall. It was good for metal casting. Not as detailed as rtv or vulcanized molds, but great for a beginner and no mess or fuss.

As a starter go to Shapeways and buy a few 6mm models. They most certainly will not be as detailed as those dreadful GHQ stuff but they will be practical and some may have barrles that do not look like a snake curled round a branch AND will stay straight. PS I did buy GHQ stuff and gave it away I was so displeased. Other folk love it, fine detail bur utterly impractical in my opinion.

For 3D prints you could use wire for the barrels if an ovesize (but straight barrel) is not what you want.
Plus of course if you do lose a bit you just print a new one.

It really depends what you are after. I can guarantee that from wargame range 3 to 4 ft 3D prints are great. If you are looking at 1 ft you will see a difference. Loads of folk here moan about 3D pring "grainy" surface. At a show nobody noiced it, neither can I and I play 1/144 moderns most weeks. You pays your money and takes your choice.

A hobbyist 3D printer isn't going to give you the resolution you need for 6mm 3D prints mainly because of the material they use and the layer thicknesses they can achieve. The smaller you go, the more printer lines you are going to see.

You are going to need something of professional quality that prints in resin. That will run you at least $30,000 USD- $50,000 USD on the low end.

I have one of these printers. My prints are highly detailed with a smooth surface and can be molded for casting.

Yeah, thats a bit steeper than $100 USD or less to mold and cast. Pouring metal is also a lot more fun than watching a printer print (interesting the first few times though, I admit). You will get nicely detailed, smooth figures without any lines or distortion. And I don't think they would take much longer to create, possibly less time?

I would definitely try some quicksil and a bar of radiator solder.

link

(oops, it says a uniform colour is not necessary, makes it even easier!)

As for epoxy putty, if you have none:

Green stuff (Used for minis and fixing gutters and pipes! Similar types, two colour strips, for fixing car fuel tank leaks from service stations or auto supplies, garages, should ok also)

Procreate (designed for minis, I believe, expensive, but the best I have used)

Miliputt (For fixing boats and household items and a mini industry standard, a bit messy to use, more like clay as the others are more like blu tac)

Sellys knead it (from the hardware store, sets very quickly, but if you can't find any thing else, it is useable)

There are more around also. Not to mention air hardening kiddy plaster based clays and oven bake clays like super sculpy (used a lot in action figures), both available from art supply and craft stores.

For most you are paying less than $20 USD even less than $10 USD, so little risk is required to give it a try.

i have no problem makeing tanks in 1/285 here is a link to a picture on my blog , the printer is a cheap pla only model

You can still see the layering, especially on top of the hull of the top one. Otherwise for armor, ok, at a pinch, but what about people? Anyone have some pictures? Would be worth a look.

agreed , but with my eyes i have trouble seeing the tanks , the phone camera has much better "eyes"

I understand.

Just for future reference, for anyone reading as well, I had a friend complain recently about people on ebay using coins as scale reference. A ruler is more internationally recognized. I'm guessing thats a US dollar? I have no idea how big that is! Over here (OZ) we have 5, 10 20, 50 cents that increase in size from about 12mm to about an inch or so, not to mention the 1 and 2 dollar coins, again different sizes.

Millimeters or inches I (meaning almost everyone) can understand.

H Man, the picture shows the model probably 8 times bigger t g an the real thing. At wargames distance it would be perfect.

I have seen some 6 mm figs done, they are crude but at this scale it only needs to be representational.

Even at 1/144 which I play with I have seen folk paint boom mikes on 10 mm tall infantry. Probably the ultimate absurdity. Even at 10 mm scale no detail can be seen while playing. Many of my infantry bare now simple prone 3D printed figs and are more than an upto the task. They are cheap and quick to produce and paint.

Sun turned, which printer did you use excelent models.

You can see other images and printer info on my blog

Wanhao Duplicator I3 Mini is the printer i use

link