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" Terrain to go with Adler's 6mm WW2 infantry." Topic

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594 hits since 12 Jan 2018
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jandretti Inactive Member12 Jan 2018 7:46 a.m. PST

What is the best terrain manufacture to go with using Adler 6mm WW2 infantry figures. In terms of using ruined houses, fortifications, and trenches. I use my figures as individuals, and do not base 5 figures to a base, as an example. So I wondering are there any manufactures who make ruined or damage houses, and trenches to put these individual Adler figures in. Any info or photos would be wonderful. I could make my own trenches, but just thought there maybe a company that has this product. Future thanks.

Greg G112 Jan 2018 1:35 p.m. PST

I use Timecast, but then I have 2 or 4 figures to a base. If you are buying Germans, Adler produce 3 different packs of dug in troops, Infantry, LMG's and MMG's.

stephen m12 Jan 2018 5:21 p.m. PST

What size bases for individual figures? For trenches I have the Timecast trenches and fox holes and they are very slim. The would work OK for figures cut off at the bases and glued into place. I think the trenches are about 1/8 wide at best and the foxholes about half that.

As for buildings I am of two thoughts. You could use any brand of mini for the intact or ruined building when empty (or with hidden troops) then replace it with a hollow version when occupied (and discovered). Makes troops in building more obvious.

Or you could use all hollow buildings. In decades past I made a few "paper" buildings using card stock. In my case I just drew exterior wall features and used markers for colour. If careful you could make the roofs removable and stack floors with your troops inside. Nowadays there are a few companies selling downloadable "paper buildings" you scale and print out yourself. I have some old paper sci fi buildings (star port looking) which had colour printed buildings you assembled. They fit on and over bases printed in black and white which were the "ruined" buildings walls and a base plate. If the building was damaged remove the intact outer/upper shell and leave the remaining base and walls. Alternatively you could put your figures in the building that way as well.

I am looking at a combo of the above, using solid buildings then replacing them with paper ones when occupied. Note however, the based figures will be very tall requiring out of scale floor heights.

What rules are you using/considering? I am very keen on Chain of Command but have an extensive collection of 6 mm and none of the popular (for the game) 28 mm. I figure a typical game could be played scaled to 1 cm to the inch giving a ground scale of 1/300 and a board of 48 cm x 72 cm or about 20 inches by 30 inches. Quite manageable on a small table. In this case I will be mounting the figures in squad to weapons team size groups with single figure leaders. Casualties will be marked with rings cut from drinking straws.

jandretti Inactive Member12 Jan 2018 5:36 p.m. PST

Thank you everybody for this valuable info. It is very helpful, thanks.

Rabelais Inactive Member14 Jan 2018 3:53 p.m. PST

For ruins I use the Blotz mdf buildings. You can get a lot of ruins out of one 'intact' building, and you can design the bases how you like.

AJ AT THE BANK16 Feb 2018 10:57 a.m. PST

Leven Miniatures are just fantastic!

They do a huge selection – including trenches – and often Mick will make you what you exactly need to order.

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