| Digger | 30 Oct 2017 7:40 p.m. PST |
I just got some Warlord and Perry AWI hard plastic figures. I've generally painted and gamed with metal so this is something new for me. Are there any basic dos and don't for assembling such miniatures? A gaming friend always recommends pinning as a way to ensure glued members are secure, but that seems almost impossible in this case. |
79thPA  | 30 Oct 2017 7:59 p.m. PST |
I've heard of people pinning metals, but not plastics. |
| Borderguy190 | 30 Oct 2017 9:08 p.m. PST |
Make sure you use plastic cement and not superglue. The joints will be much stronger. Cleaning mold lines is much easier as you can scrape most of them off versus filing. If you don't wash metal before painting, plastics need a good wash for good paint adhesion. Just warm soapy water and a toothbrush. Preferably your mates and not yours. :) |
| nsolomon99 | 30 Oct 2017 10:54 p.m. PST |
Use the liquid cement that welds the plastic joints, sets in a few seconds so you can work quickly and is very strong – actually melts the plastic together at the joint. I use the Tamiya stuff that comes in bottles with a brush applicator and screw top lid. I have 2 bottles, each with a different sized brush, one general purpose and one for very fine joints to apply just a tiny amount of the liquid. |
| Esquire | 31 Oct 2017 4:40 a.m. PST |
I second nsolomon99. There is no need for the classic "modeling" compound that comes in the tube. Make sure to use the liquid cement that has the brush. It makes the process so easy. The only hard part is the prep. Just like metals, you can never overdue the efforts to remove flashing. You really have to focus on the prep. I found that snips as well as the stand exacto or hobby blade are enough but you have to spend the time. Watch some of the things on YouTube of the professionals and you get the idea. I've kept in mind that I am not assembling and painting 1 to 12 but hundreds. So I set standards and then move on. |
| coopman | 31 Oct 2017 6:03 a.m. PST |
Do yourself a HUGE favor and get this:
link |
| idontbelieveit | 31 Oct 2017 6:19 a.m. PST |
Use plastic cement. With that, you'll not need to pin anything. Once it's set the only way you'll get pieces apart is by cutting them. I've used Tamiya extra thin and Plastruct Platic Weld but I'm sure others are fine also. |
| robert piepenbrink | 31 Oct 2017 12:37 p.m. PST |
Buy lots of the same kit. Write off one for practice. Or if you use the non-toxic cement, you can rework them later once you get the hang of it. |
| dantheman | 01 Nov 2017 8:48 a.m. PST |
I use testor liquid glue for plastic. Avoid the cement in tubes. Before gluing make sure fit is right. Sand as necessary to avoid gaps. The liquid Is cleaner and stronger. If you paint before gluing scrape paint off where pieces join. You must glue plastic to plastic. I never wash plastic though some recommend it. I prime with gesso, paint, and seal. Never had a problem. |
| Digger | 01 Nov 2017 1:34 p.m. PST |
Thanks all. This has saved me a few headaches. |
| CAPTAIN BEEFHEART | 01 Nov 2017 4:06 p.m. PST |
If you don't over do it, tube cement is great. It bonds better than liquid and helps cover the obvious gaps between pieces that are joined. Liquid or tube, plastic model cement is your best option. Never use superglue as the bond is wretched and frail. The best bond is to arc weld the pieces but the equipment can be expensive. |
| DHautpol | 02 Nov 2017 7:44 a.m. PST |
Brushing some Liquid Greenstuff over the joins once they're dry, will soften the joins. |
