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"3mm hex terrain for Rommel" Topic

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801 hits since 8 Sep 2017
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Personal logo doctorphalanx Supporting Member of TMP08 Sep 2017 7:19 p.m. PST

I still can't decide what basing and grid to use for Rommel so I've mocked up a BUA and wood compatible with the Hexon option.


More here: link

Tony S09 Sep 2017 8:17 a.m. PST

I think they'll look quite good when you're done! On a more prosaic note, what scale of miniatures are you using? And, to get even further in the weeds, will the buildings be fixed to the bases? I'm also currently building a force for Rommel, and have been thinking about terrain – making small scenery dioramas like you're doing will look outstanding, but when playing, how practical and attractive will it be to place up to six model bases on top?

Curious to know your thoughts.

Sudwind09 Sep 2017 9:52 a.m. PST

I think 2d terrain is better for operational games. Print it on card, use felt….whatever. You could put 3D stuff on top of your 2d templates and move the stuff off when troops arrive. For towns, you could put tiny buildings on clear acetate and put that on grayish felt or card….giving the effect of streets and such.

A lot of work to make the 3D stuff, but 2d will get you started and stand in till the eye candy arrives!

Personal logo doctorphalanx Supporting Member of TMP09 Sep 2017 11:04 a.m. PST

I'll be using 3mm models probably on 30mm square bases.

The buildings will be fixed in place, and the unit bases will sit on top of the BUAs and woods. I've been planning this approach for ages. I was originally going to use Hexblitz.

In Rommel the hexes/squares may contain up to 3 defenders. Attackers only need to be nudged a little over the hex/square borders.

Putting units into towns and woods always raises issues. For this scale I'm happy to live with them sitting on top. If it doesn't work I'll just substitute 2D templates when things are occupied.

John Secker Supporting Member of TMP09 Sep 2017 3:25 p.m. PST

This is always a problem with terrain. There's nothing nicer than a beautifully modelled bit of countryside, with accurate woods and tiny villages. But when you try to fight a wargame over it, you wind up with tanks balanced on top of the trees, and infantry bases teetering on the houses. For playing an actual game I tend to use area markers such as green felt for forests or black card for BUAs, and then I place model trees, houses etc on top. The models are moved out of the way when troops come through, but it means that I can still buy and paint some of the beautiful buildings on the market (I should say I play in 6mm).

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