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"Plans for Wargaming Table?" Topic


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01 Sep 2017 10:44 a.m. PST
by Editor in Chief Bill

  • Changed title from "Plans for Wargaming table" to "Plans for Wargaming Table?"
  • Removed from TMP Talk board
  • Changed starttime from
    01 Sep 2017 11:29 a.m. PST
    to
    01 Sep 2017 11:29 a.m. PST
  • Removed from TMP Talk board
  • Crossposted to Wargaming in General board


671 hits since 31 Aug 2017
©1994-2017 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

Irish Marine Supporting Member of TMP01 Sep 2017 10:29 a.m. PST

I would like to build a ten foot long by five foot wide wargaming table but that's not in my wheel house does anyone have plans that they can send, so I can pass them on to a builder.

rustymusket Supporting Member of TMP01 Sep 2017 2:15 p.m. PST

Your dimensions make for more work than I did with mine. I built a six foot by eight foot table by creating a frame-work with 2X4's on edge 6 ft. X 8 ft., supports in the middle of the eight foot dimension of side by side 2 x 4's. I cut two 3/4 inch plywood sheets to 4 x 6 feet and screwed them to the frame. I used 4 X 4 's for legs. cutting them so the 2 X 4 corners rested on the 4 x 4's and part of the 4 X 4 fit up inside the frame flush with the bottom of the plywood top. By using what I did, I limited the cutting needed on the plywood. It can be a stretch at times (I am 5 ft. 6 ins. tall), but it works for me. I hope that helps you at least a bit.

Early morning writer01 Sep 2017 3:48 p.m. PST

Any builder worth hiring will not need a plan to build something as simple as a wargaming table – unless your are thinking in terms of bells and whistles.

You need to decide what you want and communicate that to the builder, especially what you want under the table – and think in terms of 'kick' room.

Top is basic, cut up some 4' x 8' sheets of plywood, two sheets will do it with a seam on the third piece and you'll still have some left over pieces. Go strong on the support and framing if it is meant to be permanent, 2x4 or even 4x4 for the legs. Go with 3/4" thick plywood, smooth side up. Maybe have the builder seal the joints and sand them smooth.

If you want cabinets and drawers underneath, then you want a cabinet maker but that is a lot more money than a simple handyman builder (which should be sufficient).

How tall do you want your table? How much room are you allowing for people around at least three sides of the table – four is better if you can manage it?

Again, the only plan you need is thoughts of what you want.

Unless you are too infirm to do it yourself, this is a pretty simple project, especially if you have local big box stores who can precut the plywood for you. If you can handle a screw gun and wood glue (and maybe some clamps) this can be done in a few hours. Just don't forget cross bracing to give the legs stability.

Good luck – and maybe some photos of what you end up with?!

Personal logo Extra Crispy Sponsoring Member of TMP01 Sep 2017 4:54 p.m. PST

I made a platform of plywood and 2x4s. Then I just put it over two sturdy kitchen shelf units from Ikea. Very fast, and easy. Plus I can take it apart and move it.

Skeets Supporting Member of TMP01 Sep 2017 6:26 p.m. PST

My wife had my table built at a voke school and made by the students. The table top is 12'x6', the end supports are book cases and there are 2 other book cases on each side. The table is "gut" high.

Bunkermeister Supporting Member of TMP01 Sep 2017 9:45 p.m. PST

Build your table counter top high, kitchen counter and bathroom counter top, typically 40 inches. Otherwise constant bending over will cause back pain.

Three to four inches of overhang of the table top to the supports is helpful. Big feet standing close to the table allow short arms a longer reach. Your kitchen counter likely also has a similar overhang.

Check model train layout websites, and magazines. Those guys build tables all the time that have to be strong, and they constantly rip them up and build a new one. They often have plans and charts and graphs on building tables.

If you use more than one piece of plywood side by side, then use a biscuit joiner to insure the pieces stay perfectly side to side. I hate when they don't and your table is lumpy.

I put shelving under my table that was designed to fit my standardized storage boxes. Perfect fit, no wasted space.

Tell the builder you want it strong enough for two of your sturdy friends to walk around on top of the table, like a stage. My table lasted nearly 30 years before I took it down a couple weeks ago, still as good as the day it was installed.

It was built by Randy Davis, from Fidelis Models.

Mike Bunkermeister Creek
https://bunkermeister.blogspot.com

Black Hat Miniatures02 Sep 2017 12:17 a.m. PST

Look at boardgames geek forum in the diy section, they have a lot of long running threads on building boardgames tables. The same principles apply…

Mike

Ghecko02 Sep 2017 2:18 a.m. PST

Awful close in size to a table tennis table….

Ottoathome02 Sep 2017 5:12 a.m. PST

Hint. Make it sectional and collapsible. If you make it permanent wherever you put it, it will become a pain in the but and a catch all for every piece of junk in your house from the wife's laundry folding table to a pile place for coats and everything loose. It will also ALWAYS be in the way and you yourself will start spreading out your painting over it.

Bigger hint. Don't cut yourself more work when you can save time.

Look at the many excellent folding tables sold by Lowe's, Kmart, Wal Mart, Home Depot, Hannafords, or any of a hundred other public outlets in the country. They come in all shapes and sizes and by the time you get the materials and make the thing, the scratch-built table will cost just as much if not more than these things. I've seen people buy these things for as cheap as $20 USD each and get huge 6 by 12 layouts.

Don't reinvent the wheel if you don't have to.

I'm handy and I made my tables out of six sets of commercially available cafeteria table legs ($18 each) 24 ft of aluminum angle for bracing, and 12 finished and smoothed pine boards and three quarts of spar varnish. Cost about $300 USD and a lot of work. If I had it to do all over I would have bought the heavy duty plastic picnic tables ready made.

Huscarle Supporting Member of TMP02 Sep 2017 7:24 a.m. PST

Check out this KS that is running at the moment
link

Lascaris02 Sep 2017 7:33 p.m. PST

I bought kitchen cabinet bases and screwed high grade plywood sheets onto them to make a 6x9 table. Has lots of storage in the cabinets and down the middle.

War Scorpio03 Sep 2017 7:04 a.m. PST

I would endorse what Otto said. I have 4 2 1/2' x 6' folding tables for a 10'x 6' tabletop, close to what you are looking for. They are very sturdy, I know as I get on top of them to change to track lighting bulbs above, and they hardly flex. The cost was very reasonable.

My bro-in-law has a custom built table but it cost him a fortune, and it's smaller.

Love the size of this table. If you take your game to a convention usually they can replicate the size easily.

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