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"6mm town sectors" Topic


8 Posts

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World War Two on the Land

837 hits since 16 Aug 2017
©1994-2019 Bill Armintrout
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smolders16 Aug 2017 12:00 p.m. PST

I want to build a small town for my table, each sector of a town (as stated in the rules) is 3"..What sort of size should the buildings on this 3" sector be to look nice on the table?

(Sorry of this is a weak question but I'm very new to 6mm scale coming from 28 and 15mm prior.)

Malibu Max16 Aug 2017 12:29 p.m. PST

Take a look here:

link

Scroll down to the bottom of the page for the WW2 town model bases. It should give you an idea of the sort of buildings you might need and how to base them up.

Max

boy wundyr x16 Aug 2017 1:44 p.m. PST

If you're scaling your game so that one vehicle is one vehicle, then I'd go with 6mm buildings, which are available from a number of sources – GHQ, Leven, Gamecraft, Total Battle, lots others.

But if you're playing a higher level game, where a stand of vehicles might be a company or higher, then you might want to look at 2mm buildings from Brigade Models UK or Irregular or Forwardmarchstudios (see his posts here), or scratchbuild your own. You could fit a nicely sized village on 3x3" in 2mm.

David Grech16 Aug 2017 2:45 p.m. PST

Here's my way to go for bua

link

mwindsorfw16 Aug 2017 4:55 p.m. PST

If you want quick, cheap buildings, get 1" x 1" blocks or a 1x1 piece of lumber (or the metric version) and cut it to the desired lengths. Hit it with some spray paint for the main color. Paint the top darker. Add painted Windows and doors. You have a bunch of flat-roofed buildings that can stand alone or be put next to each other in city blocks. They are not as beautiful as the ones you buy, but they start to look a lot better from 2-3 feet away. The flat roof also lets you park a stand of infantry on top to "occupy" the building.

BattlerBritain17 Aug 2017 1:11 a.m. PST

All the above are good suggestions.

I do some 6mm gaming and I put terrain together depending an what a stand represents, eg one stand = one vehicle or one stand = a platoon.

For platoon sized games using 2 or 3mm terrain can give a good impression of scale, but because I've got 6mm terrain I use that on a board section sized for the town sector, eg 3" by 3" or 3" by 4".

I then take a snapshot of Google Maps images for the terrain I want to play over, eg a specific town for a battle refight. I scale the Google shot to fit the scale on the table, eg 1" to 100m. Then place buildings on that to denote terrain type and give it a bit of 3D.

I'll try and give an image of what I'm talking about:
Normandy EPSOM battle refight:
Timecast buildings and rubber roads (which are excellent by the way). Leven buildings are also great.

Normandy EPSOM battle refight

This is mounting board sections each at 4" by 6".

The Wargames Room17 Aug 2017 1:34 p.m. PST

My WWII & Modern town sectors are 3" square and have around three buildings per sector. This includes a narrow street and an open area where I can place a stand, representing a garrison.

This means that the buildings are the smaller ones from the excellent time cast range. In addition I combine two sectors, to allow one or two larger buildings to overflow. Otherwise these larger sectors are the same. That is they have streets and open areas.

John Secker Supporting Member of TMP17 Aug 2017 3:02 p.m. PST

I use 3" squares too, but I leave the buildings loose – I use Leven mostly, though other manufacturers are available. That way I can move the buildings around, or remove them altogether, to allow my to put the troops where they need to be. Except in 1-1 skirmish games (which I don't play in 6mm) both the BUA and the troops are representing much more than is on the base – the 3" square would really have dozens of buildings on it. Using 2mm is an alternative, and looks nice, but you wind up with 6mm models balanced on top of the buildings, which doesn't look so good. So I treat the BUA as an area, and the buildings are movable decorations. Same with woods and model trees.

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