"Overpainting semi-gloss or gloss coats" Topic

I spraypainted a set of AIM 1/200 A6M2 Zeroes with Tamiya AS-29 "synthetic lacquer", which dries to a hard, smooth, semi-gloss finish. This finish looks nice, is extremely durable, and is also very convenient for certain kinds of shading and overpainting (the canopy was especially easy).

However, overcoats of brushed-on acrylic paint have very poor adhesion (no surprise). Are there any old modeler's tricks I can try to improve adhesion on particular areas?

Since the entire nose cowling is going to become black, I can probably just use an appropriate primer. I'll try Tamiya's own "Surface Primer" first, but I'd appreciate advice on what kind of primer would work best, if anyone has experience with this.

For weathering and exhaust/gunpowder streaks, primer would completely defeat the purpose of the spray coat. It would be nicer to find a way to "rough up" the surface so I can drybrush over it with acrylic, stain it with inks and washes, etc.

- Ix

Rough it up just a bit with a very fine sandpaper, scouring pad, or tooth paste.

Toothpaste? That's unexpected… but I'll try that. These things are tiny, I don't think I can get in there with physical objects like scouring pads and sanding sticks. A cue tip or foam-tip brush ought to be able to reach with an abrasive fluid or paste, though.

- Ix

I tried the Tamiya Surface Primer on one Zero nose – not my favorite primer. It's goopy and fills in tiny details, and dries very quickly so it's hard to thin. It does seem to stick though.

- Ix

An interesting side note about the Tamiya Surface Primer:

The primer I bought is white, originally purchased for spot-priming peeling plastic 1/72 figures. The Zero nose I put it on already had some black paint in the nooks and crannies, from a failed attempt to paint black acrylic over the semi-gloss lacquer. The remainder of the black paint was days old and completely dry, but the primer still mixed with it and turned gray. Whatever the solvent in the primer, it apparently takes apart acrylic paint.

- Ix

Peeling plastic 1/72: hit them with woodland Scenics Terrain Cement It even stopped enamels from flaking off, which amazed me.

Follow up:

My final preferred solution was Testors Modelmaster enamel primer. It went on nice and thin, had good coverage in one coat (and didn't dissolve and mix with the previous coat of acrylic), adhered really well, and dried tough and hard.

Downsides are the lack of color choices (gray only), and the need for mineral spirits to clean the brush.

- Ix