"Plywood bases" Topic

Thinking about buying some marine ply for bases. I have some 1.8mm I used for 25mm figures that I have had for donkey's years, but for 6mm I wondered about 0.8mm ply. Do TMP's assembled brains think this will be OK or is it likely to warp once flocked?

MDF is the answer

I use it for some round bases without problems but you have to be pretty carful as it stands a very good chance of warping depending on how you work with it.

I only use it for small round bases for single figures. First I stick the magnetic material underneath. The figure is glued on with epoxy and I ensure that the entire top surface of the base is covered with glue. This ensures that when I add filler that it can't seep moisture into the wood. The base and figure is placed on a steel surface while it dries. Working like this I have never had a problem but I wouldn't use thin ply if you are intending to have multiple figures on a large base unless you are basing them pretty tightly. The figures own cast on base will act to prevent warping but if the gaps between figures are such and if you allow wetness to seep into the ply then it'll probably warp.

I had a whole 25mm army that I based on 1mm ply with 15 – 20mm frontage per figure – it all warped as I didn't prevent the moisture from the filler getting into the wood.

These days, other than some round bases, I use steel bases which are about 0.8mm thick. I get them from Precision Wargame Supplies in the UK. Over the years Ian has made me lots of bases, often to custom sizes.

I'm one of these folks who like very thin bases. If that doesn't bother you then you could use thicker ply which is probably more stable. I've often wondered if ply soaked in Phenolic Resin would be stable enough not to warp but I've never tried to source the resin to test it.

I use 1.5mm plywood for pretty much any multi-based figures as it is, just about, the same thickness as the artists' matte board that I used to use.

I only use 0.8mm plywood for 6mm vehicles but use a double layer with the lower being 1/4" longer to provide a lip for a label. Used this way I've never had it warp but I don't think I'd trust a single layer. The other thing about a single layer of 0.8mm is that you can't really get a purchase on it so you're always going to be handling the model.

Thanks for the prompt responses guys. Certainly foot castings will almost fill the bases but skirmishes and horse might be an issue. Steel bases will allow magnetic sheet to be used in the storage boxes to keep them in place might give that a look.

I do steel. Cheap, easy to get, and non-warping. Easy to paint.

I continue to maintain the whole "move bases by the edge" argument is flimsy. I never see this done. Maybe on turn one when everything si at the back edge. But by turn 3 when everything is in the middle of the table stands get moved by the figures no matter how thick the base. More because you can't reach around the terrain, other stands, etc.

So I wnet with thin and just live with normal wear and tear.

A very good point Crispy, I have been telling players "pick it up by the base", but, as you say, by turn 2, that is ignored.

When I first started using plywood bases I had a problem with them warping. The guys at Litko told me the cause, which was that I was using white glue. They said to use super glue and, since starting to do so I haven't had any more problems.

We play DBx with thicker Renaissance Ink bases and almost always pick bases up by sides except when mashed in a serious scrum.

I use 1.5mm for my 6mm. I did use 0.8 aeromodellers ply for some of my ACW cavalry, but as soon as I applied white glue it warped, so now use the thicker stuff.

Those of you you who use steel bases, do you have problems getting scenic materials to stick? I use the old- fashioned combo of white glue, sand and then flock/ static grass and I can never get the edges to cover properly first time, the glue seems to roll off the metal.

Metal bases and magnetic unit bases…max flexibility.

I just order some 25mm square washer on eBay
So stay tune since I'm not sure how those will work out.
$10 USD for 100

Those of you you who use steel bases, do you have problems getting scenic materials to stick? I use the old- fashioned combo of white glue, sand and then flock/ static grass and I can never get the edges to cover properly first time, the glue seems to roll off the metal.

That's because the steel probably comes with oils/greases on it that repel the paint, and with a smooth surface makes it even harder to glue to adhere to.

Spraying them with undercoat should provide a better surface for the paint and glue to adhere to.

I have used metal washers in the past and not had the problems you describe.

Sometimes the same happens with plastics, again due to the grease/oil involved in the release mechanism from moulds.

HTH

I used thin metal bases and washers and always primed and painted the bases and then put on the white glue, then flock or whatever I was doing for looks. Sometimes the edges were a small issue with the thin bases, but not much.

I eventually went with 1.8mm marine ply. No warping so far.

"Those of you you who use steel bases, do you have problems getting scenic materials to stick? … the glue seems to roll off the metal."

I've used PC-7 or PC-11 plumbers/marine epoxy putty for texturing. It's worked fine on GW plastics, steel, and basswood bases-- follow with white glue and flock as desired, and since the putty seals the wood, there's no risk of warping.

These are available in the U.S. at Ace or Tru-Value hardware stores; I don't know if there is an equivalent product available in Europe.