"Cardstock Buildings - Hybrid Gluing" Topic

Working on another small, 1/144th scale, post-WWII, West German Haus, using 110 lb. cardstock this time, instead of plain paper (20 lb. weight).

Seems to be going well, though I'm thinking that perhaps for these smaller structures, 67 lb. cardstock might be the way to go. Of course, I could always score the cardstock with an X-Acto knife to make the bends a little easier, and less of a fight, but I'm still experimenting, so we'll see.

I am using a thin, steel ruler, for helping make the wall and structure tab bends as crisp as possible.

The 110 lb. cardstock is certainly much more durable, and I suspect, forgiving, than the paper, but it has its own challenges as well. Still, seems like a good option, especially for larger buildings in this scale.

While working on this, I hit on a hybrid method of assembly, so thought I would share that with you all, in case you also want, or need to assemble paper models.

I wanted to avoid the warping issue of using PVA (Elmer's White Glue), but currently, I only have that and tape to get the job done. So, had to press on with the materials at hand.

Anyway, what I'm doing is using Scotch tape to tack the walls into place temporarily, internally. Based upon feedback when I asked about using this dream gluing material, the general consensus is/was that eventually the tape will lose its adhesion, and the paper model will fall apart. That's what I suspected, which is why I asked.

However, tape is non-warping, very easy to use, aids reassembly and placement movement if you get things wrong, and is cheap and easily available.

Therefore, I'm using short strips of it to hold the base and the walls in place, once I get them properly aligned, and then am adding just a little white glue into the corners of the structure, and the small overlapping tabs, in order to make for a more secure, and permanent bond. I'm applying the PVA with a toothpick tip, and the process seems to be working well so far. Making sure to add a little PVA along any internal tab, join lines too, where the tape isn't, just for good measure, but very sparingly.

The structure is still drying, and once that's done, I'll be printing and adding the roof too. I've made relatively wide tabs for that, and since the bottom base isn't hollow, I won't be able to tape them, but I suspect the cardstock will be sturdy and heavy enough to dry in place with just a little more PVA added, without the need for that.

I guess I could cut out the bottom of the structure base, but not sure I want to do that, at least currently. Might be a good idea, if I place these on anything other than flat terrain, but we'll just have to see.

That is what some people recommend.

I hope this works, since it will certainly be a lot less expensive than having to buy special glues by the single ounce, for these, in the future.

Will have to try some 67 lb. cardstock next, to see if that is the sweet spot, for these small homes. I suspect it just may be.

Built a paper ship once using a glue stick. Not sure how long it held together since I tossed it after a few years. When I built her a book on paper models I had recommended building a scoring tool which I did. You take an Xacto type blade and grind the edge off. I did this by running it across a rock to make it quite blunt and dull with a rounded tip. Using a steel straight edge with this blade will leave a straight line impression in the paper without cutting it. It is quite easy to fold the paper along this line.

I've used a fine tipped ballpoint pen for scoring. The ink mark will likely need to be on the inside, but an empty one is a possibility.

Just other thoughts are making square cardstock beams to reinforce corners, or balsa wood, or drinking/stirring straws, even paper clips and coins can be employed for structural integrity or simply weight.

Thanks the tips.

I really appreciate them.

I've used X-Actos in the past for this, but it needs a light touch to keep from scoring through.

Will have to try your techniques, instead.

This time, I just reverse bent them, over a thin steel ruler, with my fingernail, so I can see the lines where that needs to be done, and then bent them back the way they should be, and that worked pretty well, but they were a bit stiff. Only one corner didn't get a nice, crisp fold, so I suspect that's due to my carelessness, or a ruler slip. I was able to fix it pretty well.

The above technique appears to have worked for gluing, so I think it is a winner.

I need to go back and reinforce the roof edging a bit, in a spot or two, but otherwise, the klein haus (little house) turned out quite well.

Now, I just need to make and add some chimneys, and to churn out a few more for a small settlement, or neighborhood.

May have to attempt some of those raised roof windows too, once I get a few more basic homes done.

I use the opposite side of the exacto for scoring, works great and allows you to cut and score the model with the same blade.

For scoring try a toothpick.

If you plan on doing a lot of paper (and I love paper myself) pic up a bottle of Ailene's Tacky Glue. It si very inexpensive and has a load of uses besides paper buildings. A small bottle is $1.29 USD at Michael's for 2 ounces:

link

There are many tools that can help with making paper models.

For the scoring, I like an old dissection kit probe: Needle in a wooden handle:

As explained in my ancient "How-To":
link

But sculpting tools:

And especially Burnishers:

Can work very well. A burnisher has a ball on the end, so much less likely to rip the card stock.

It seems to me that craft sticks, often available at dollar stores, would be a cheap and useful material for reinforcing corners and bases.

Let dry overnight, and I'm happy to report that the technique is resounding success.

Thanks again, for all the additional tips, tools, and techniques suggestions.