Help support TMP


"latex mold milliput casting possible?" Topic


7 Posts

All members in good standing are free to post here. Opinions expressed here are solely those of the posters, and have not been cleared with nor are they endorsed by The Miniatures Page.

Please use the Complaint button (!) to report problems on the forums.

For more information, see the TMP FAQ.


Back to the Moldmaking and Casting Message Board


Areas of Interest

General

Featured Hobby News Article


Featured Recent Link


Featured Ruleset

Wargaming


Rating: gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star gold star 


Featured Showcase Article

Small Storage Packs from Charon

When you only need to carry 72 28mm figures (or less)...


Featured Workbench Article

Forest Bases on a Budget

Holy Roman Emperor Joseph III Fezian shows us that you don't need money to have great bases.


Featured Profile Article

Mini Wooden Palettes

Building blocks?


Current Poll


Featured Book Review


2,149 hits since 24 Feb 2017
©1994-2024 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

wardog24 Feb 2017 4:47 p.m. PST

trying to create a number of scratchbuilt 1/2400 scale aircraft on bases ,ghq modern range is too limited for my use (wish they would expand it)so for now want to replicate my own scratchbuilt models (f100 ,raf lighting jet, c133 cargo aircraft and more
tried to use bathroom silicone sealer in tube (vinegar smelling) for molds but milliput (casting)slides out when pressed into it (anything i could add to rubber to stop this)apparently milliput wont work against pe pp and teflon ,i assume that is what above silicone made from,
so thinking latex, will milliput work against it, any one know? (is latex pe pp ?)

Bellbottom24 Feb 2017 5:24 p.m. PST

Have a look for Oyumaru, might work.

Personal logo StoneMtnMinis Supporting Member of TMP24 Feb 2017 6:35 p.m. PST

What are your masters made out of? Contact me and I might be of some assistance.

Dave
stonemountainminATgmailDotcom
wargamingminiatures.com

evilgong24 Feb 2017 9:24 p.m. PST

I made a crude but acceptable mold for some parts I wanted replicated by using Plasticine.

The master was a mix of miliput and metal. The mold was simply slightly warmed up plasticene into which I pushed the master.

The plasticene was then put in the freezer to harden up – then miliput was pushed into the cold but strong mold to make the copy.

The detail wasn't great but it was enough for me to clean up and use for the intended purpose.

I had to re-make the mold as it deformed in the de-moulding, but that was no great problem and I needed only 3 new items.

Regards

David F Brown

bsrlee25 Feb 2017 5:12 a.m. PST

With silicone moulds you might have to wait a few weeks for the final release of chemical by-products from the mould which can cause all sorts of problems with resin or molten metal. The process can be accelerated by heating the mould just a bit over 100C/212F.

Then you can contend with the epoxy resin chemically attacking the silicone mould.

Dagwood26 Feb 2017 7:58 a.m. PST

I made a one-sided push mould using Fimo. Bake it hard, cover with a release agent of some sort (I used talc), and it can then be used as a mould for green stuff or other epoxy, or resin.

wardog26 Feb 2017 12:50 p.m. PST

thanks guys
tried plasticine not keen evilgong
tried das and fimo slight undercuts involved so dont look right dagwood
used tiranti rubber that used for lead figures casting, works great by the way for press mold with milliput but i have limited supply, hard for me to get and dont want to waste it on press mold
tried resin dedicated work space ,preparations and clean up/disposal ,not at the moment (see below)
so bathroom silicone was next but milliput slides out of mold as said above, milliput and pe pp dont work together so is there somethig i can add to bathroom rubber to make them work together
do a bit of travelling from time to time so while i am sitting around bored, i can bring my molds and some milliput with me and start pressing

Sorry - only verified members can post on the forums.