"Making and/or Assembling Paper Buildings?" Topic

I'm curious to know which techniques people prefer for making/assembling their paper and cardstock buildings, in order to make them sturdy, so that they survive the rigors of battle on the tabletop, not to mention transport and storage too?

There seem to be quite a few option for producing them, in order to strengthen the walls and roofs, and I suspect the techniques may vary by scale, since 6mm buildings probably need far less internal support due to their very small size, but 15mm and larger ones may need substantial rigidity added, due to their much larger size.

I'm primarily interested in techniques which are fairly quick and easy to use, as well as being inexpensive, and yet will provide protection for the structures, so they aren't destroyed when putting them into, or pulling them out of the box, or during transport. I imagine most will survive the rigors of tabletop use intact, if they can survive being placed on the tabletop.

Right now, I'm working on 1/144th scale, AKA 10mm – 12mm structures for some Cold War gaming. I should really be working on making more roads, but buildings are a lot more interesting, so I got distracted.

Feel free to comment on that, if you'd like, but I'd also like to know in general, what techniques you use to strengthen your paper and card stock structure?

Choices are:

1. No additional strengthening materials added
2. Internal, secondary paper/cardstock layer – no base
3. As for 1, but just glue them onto a base
4. Paper and/or cardstock corner bracing – no base
5. Paper and/or cardstock corner bracing, and a base
6. Cardboard under-layer
7. Foamcore under-layer
8. Styrene sheet under-layer
9. Acrylic under-layer – professional modelers sometimes use this technique, so they can have clear, and/or opaque windows for more realism, and/or interior lighting
10. Wood block under-layer
11. Lego blocks, or similar plastic building blocks under-layer
12. Just a matte sealant, or other material applied to the paper/cardstock for strengthening, e.g. like watered down PVA, etc.
13. Other – please specify

Obviously, some people may use multiple techniques, so please feel free to discuss that as well.

If needed I use cardboard underneath, but this is only for odd shaped corners or fiddly bits that might not stick correctly. Bridges come to mind with a curved roadway section.

Usually I just glue the bottom to a vinyl floor tile and that holds the shape well.

foamcore. it's very easy to cut smoothly and accurately.

I have found that a coat of sealant after construction adds strength as well. I generally use Mod-Podge, but thin white glue can work.

I guess my pals are gentler. 3 for me.

What "rigors"? I have plain paper buildings that are 5 years old and still perfectly intact.

1 + adding some weight (Glue a couple pennies inside)

Brother Scott Colby, who provided much invaluable help by "test assembling" parts of the "Mean Streets" card stock models went on to compile a wonderful resource that addresses practically everything in the original post.

And, Damn, if it isn't free! You can download the PDF a minute from if you will follow this link

I recommend it--indeed, provide it--to all first time customers.

Thanks Again, Scotto!

TVAG

I do a lot of the understructure that's been mentioned, prefer foamcore, but I also painted the external surfaces with Polyurethane stain, such as that used for dipping figures. It weathers the surface a bit and adds protection.

I've also tried to inject into the shell of the building insulation foam from a aerosol can. When done correctly this makes The structure almost indestructible. However I sometimes put into much foam, and the building bulges :-(

13 – Other.

I started buying balsa square rods. I cut them to length, and use Wood Glue to create a rib structure. I print on 20# paper, using a color laser printer. I glue-stick the paper to 3mm thick cardboard, from the picture frame shop, then I Wood Glue the cardboard sections to the frame.

It is a bit of work, but the results are very durable. It is still quicker than any other construction techniques, and the finished results are quite good. I use this primarily for 25mm castle construction.

I've used the 3mm-thick cardboard skeleton technique for 25mm scale medieval siege towers, as well. They are quite strong, look fantastic, and when mounted on a textured base, they really sell themselves on the tabletop.

The 3mm-thick cardboard is really the crux of my technique. I won't use anything else, from this point forward. It just works. Cheers!

Build them on the heaviest paper the model will allow. I rarely, if ever, use any sort of strengthening material. Buildings hold up quite well. I try to make them open bottom by placing them on a base and then cutting a hole through the base. That gives you a bottom edge brace and a wide hole to hide miniatures under the building.

My list of Useful Wargaming Guides.

Techniques & Tips for Card Stock & Foam Board Modeling

Paper Modeling Guide

hope it helps.

Take care

Andy

Thanks for all the replies, tips, and links.

I really appreciate it.

For fast and very sturdy print your own buildings instead of cardstock lately I've done a few buildings using label paper stuck to foamcore. For 28mm minis I've tried options 1-7 but liked this best of all. With no bracing some of my buildings warped badly just sitting on the shelf in the basement. Stuff made of smaller boxes was ok with just cardstock but the bigger the individual boxes the weaker they got.

Taking advantage of access to a lasercutter, I print my 1/400 scale buildings on thin card, draw up interlocking boxes to fit, and cut them from 3mm MDF. No wobbly skyscrapers in these parts!

Being for a Mobile Suit Gundam game, these are therefore strong enough to have 60' tall mecha land on their roofs. :)

I always made mine fold flat from 300 grm cardstock. We originally used cerial packet but it does not fold and keep the paint well. Hence tht move to 300grm card(about 270 to 350 is OK , 180 needs some re-enforcement) which folds well and can be run through a printer easily. With lots of buildings exsesive detail is not neded, but its a personal choice. 300 grm will hold 28mm figs. No problem at 1/144.

Look at our stuff for inspiration.

link

1/144 on bases. I am sure if you are an artist you could do a bit better if you felt it neccessary.

link

Some of ours at 1/72 are failing now, after about 10 years of heavy usage. Keep it in a box file, flat and dont let the ham fisted assemble it (takes less than 30 seconds for most buildings). Make a simple base ro put 1/144 stuff on which folds up and locates the building and makes the first floor.

Best gain is space used to store and you can afford lots. Nothing worse than 4 houses in a village it does not work tacticaly. 10 is good 15 better and you have an interesting challenge. 20 plus personally too many the game becomes a bit undemanding.

I have a laser cutter but perminent buildings take up too much space when you have to store 100 plus and weight becomes an issue.