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"What glue works with Foam board" Topic


21 Posts

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Comments or corrections?

acctingman186904 Oct 2016 9:02 a.m. PST

I've heard a hot glue gun works, only if the gun is able to get super hot. My glue gun is your typical Michael's $8 USD gun, so I'm thinking it will melt the foam.

Is there a glue out there that works best for foam board?

Perris070704 Oct 2016 9:38 a.m. PST

I used Elmer's glue. Worked great, but you do need to wait a bit for it to dry.

Dale Hurtt04 Oct 2016 9:52 a.m. PST

If it is true foam board, and not foam core board, i.e. covered with paper, then there is a special foam glue you can buy in the craft stores. That said, it is expensive and essentially just thicker white glue.

The problem with hot glue is not melting the foam, but that if you are gluing a large surface area the first bits of glue start rapidly cooling and will bead, creating a gap between the two glue pieces.

Stryderg04 Oct 2016 10:14 a.m. PST

CAVEAT: I have not tried this.
I would think that wood glue should work. If the foam is porous, the wood glue ought to get in there and do the job. You'll probably need a lot and have long drying time, though.

acctingman186904 Oct 2016 10:15 a.m. PST

Looks like I'll stick with PVA glue then.

Thanks

doctorphalanx04 Oct 2016 10:20 a.m. PST

UHU POR Styrofoam Adhesive

vtsaogames04 Oct 2016 11:24 a.m. PST

PVA and pins while it dries?

Kraken Skulls Consortium04 Oct 2016 11:31 a.m. PST

I do a lot of foam and foam core terrain building, and have always done just what vtsaogames suggested. White glue (or wood glue, honestly as I got a gallon of it cheaper than white glue at the time) and pins until dry.

Cosmic Reset04 Oct 2016 11:38 a.m. PST

3M makes a Styrofoam spray adhesive that works well. There is some overspray, but it isn't a big issue, as the spray doesn't come out in a fine mist.

Artist's matte medium can be used as an alternative to white glue, and seems to dry somewhat faster.

Titchmonster04 Oct 2016 11:53 a.m. PST

Liquid Nails

olicana04 Oct 2016 12:37 p.m. PST

I've stuck it with PVA. I've been told it never actually dries because of non porous surfaces, but mine haven't fallen apart yet. I did take the precaution of spreading the glue on the outer surface so that it dried, like paint, across the gap.

These hills are two 1" thick bits stuck together with PVA, and looking closely you can see the join.

picture

Pauls Bods04 Oct 2016 12:52 p.m. PST

PVA and Cocktail sticks as "Nails" which, when the glue has dried, get get broken off flush with the outside surface and the rest left in.
This Little lot;
link
was built entirely of foam board using PVA and Cocktail sticks to bind the walls and roofs

Mattw338504 Oct 2016 1:43 p.m. PST

I always used Aleene's turbo tacky glue.

Random Die Roll Supporting Member of TMP04 Oct 2016 1:46 p.m. PST

I agree with Mattw above---that Aleene's glue is a step up from Elmer's and you can get it for a good price

Giles the Zog04 Oct 2016 2:09 p.m. PST

Funnily enough I am sitting here with some foam core buildings (Mordheim), and am busy having a good hard planking….as in putting balsa wood planks for flooring on the foam board.

Throughout I have been using a generic all purpose glue that comes in tubes. Its from B&Q in the UK (Dial is the new brand name), its cheap and easy and sticks it all together well.

I haven't tried PVA / Wood Glue but would guess that works.

I have also found, that using textured masonry paint to seal in the foam is a very good idea, as you can then spray paint/undefoat the foam bored without it melting.

HTH.

CeruLucifus05 Oct 2016 6:04 a.m. PST

The point of hot glue gun is the bond can still be cut by a hot wire cutter, so it lets you assemble flat foam pieces into a block then sculpt as normal. Hot glue does has very short working time, which is usually an advantage, but Dale Hurtt is correct this may be too short for sticking large pieces of foam together. Using higher temp hot glue may be an option (many glue guns have high/low temp settings) but test it on your foam first to make sure it doesn't melt.

Foam is non-porous so airtight so glues that cure by evaporation can only evaporate out through the seam between the two pieces. This is usually not a problem for small pieces, but with bigger pieces you can get the result that the edge of the glue near the seam cures and becomes airtight preventing the glue in the middle from curing. This can be an issue with PVA glues (white household glue, tacky craft glue, and yellow carpenter's glue).

Glues that cure by chemical reaction don't have this issue, as long as they don't get so hot the foam melts. That is the point of specialty foam glues as they are formulated to this purpose.

TeknoMerk05 Oct 2016 7:40 a.m. PST

For years I use a low water content glue, like UHU. It has good adhesive and dries fast.

alan L07 Oct 2016 8:57 a.m. PST

TeknoMerk,

Is that the standard All Purpose UHU in the yellow tube or one specifically for
Foamboard?

Have you ever had any issue in 90 degree joints where the glue is being applied to the foam insert of a wall when gluing it to a floor piece which is of course the paper side of the board?

capncarp08 Oct 2016 8:45 a.m. PST

I have always used Elmer's (PVA) or my preferred, Elmer's Wood Glue in mortised joints, with sewing straight pins securing the joint until the glue is cured.

Borathan08 Oct 2016 8:57 p.m. PST

I've used tacky glues if it's something that won't easily lay flat against each other in the construction, or white glue/PVA and pins if I had to. If it's a flat connection, you don't always need the pins…

10mm Wargaming10 Oct 2016 2:20 a.m. PST

I would use PVA hope it helps.

Take care

Andy

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