Yellow Admiral  | 13 Sep 2016 11:26 a.m. PST |
I have a collection of 1/72 plastic Napoleonics which have suffered a bit of chipped and peeled paint over many years of use, mostly on muskets and swords. To save them, I'm going to have to brush on a primer, since spraying would obliterate the entire paint job. Krylon and Rustoleum plastic primers are great, but I can only find Krylon in spray cans and I've only seen brush-on Rustoleum plastic primer in a quart. Does anyone know where to find either of these in a liquid pint? I'm in the US. - Ix |
| idontbelieveit | 13 Sep 2016 11:33 a.m. PST |
I don't know of getting them in a liquid form. You can decant the stuff from the aerosol can. There are videos on youtube. My alternate suggestion is Mr Surfacer which is available in a jar. |
| Who asked this joker | 13 Sep 2016 11:42 a.m. PST |
Tamiya Primer. link It will probably work if the surface is clean of oils and debris. |
Yellow Admiral  | 13 Sep 2016 11:44 a.m. PST |
I've never heard of Mr. Surfacer before, so I'll look into it. Thanks! Does it stretch or flex without peeling? The weapons on 1/72 soldiers are notoriously easy to bend, which can be a real problem for many paints. I didn't even think to look for a Tamiya primer. Duh. Good suggestion. - Ix |
Joes Shop  | 13 Sep 2016 12:19 p.m. PST |
Mr. Surfacer is excellent for plastic models; I've never used it on soft plastic figures and I'm not sure how much flex it would have. I'd be inclined to use Gesso as a brush on primer for small areas.
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| Who asked this joker | 13 Sep 2016 12:52 p.m. PST |
Gesso Doh! Should have suggested that too! A friend uses it on his plastics with good results. Very stinky though from what I understand. |
Yellow Admiral  | 13 Sep 2016 2:02 p.m. PST |
I've used Gesso for the plastic minis I've painted, but I find it tends to flake off vulnerable spots like muskets and swords and hat peaks. I'd like to switch to a primer formulated to bond firmly to plastic. The miniatures I'm going to repair are old soft plastic Airfix British, and were painted by someone else, probably in his teens. I have no idea what paints or primers he used, I'm just trying to salvage as much of his work as I can. The first thing I did was clearcoat the undamaged parts with polyurethane to protect them from further flaking and damage, now I'd like to go back and touch up the damage. - Ix |
| MajorB | 13 Sep 2016 2:20 p.m. PST |
The only "primer" I've ever used is Humbrol enamel paint. |
| 45thdiv | 13 Sep 2016 2:30 p.m. PST |
So, I went with Gesso for a terrain project. It did not turn out well. Tended to pool into the detail. I tried thinning it with water, not enough coverage. Then I went to do a wash/dip on the terrain. It did not stick. Never had that happen before. I'm going back to Walmart 98 cents matt spraycans in white, gray and black. |
| Vintage Wargaming | 13 Sep 2016 2:33 p.m. PST |
If you spray your soft plastic figures with clear Plastidip after painting this is the best way to make sure they retain their paint |
Sgt Slag  | 13 Sep 2016 2:52 p.m. PST |
Sealing plastic mini's with either The Dip, or clear urethane, works quite well. Nearly all of my plastic mini's, are sealed with The Dip, and I have little trouble with losing paint. I suspect the sealant is more important than the primer, as virtually nothing sticks to most soft plastics, for very long. The urethane, on the other hand, forms a tight skin around the paint beneath it, and the plastic beneath that. Best of luck! Cheers! |
Yellow Admiral  | 13 Sep 2016 6:22 p.m. PST |
I don't really need alternative suggestions for clearcoating; I'm already perfectly happy with Minwax Tudor Satin clearcoat (aka "the dip") because it brings out detail in one lazy step and it protects the painted plastic amazingly well. I just ordered a jar of Tamiya Liquid Surface white primer, so I'll see how that works on polyethylene. If that proves unsatisfactory, Mr. Surfacer is Plan B. - Ix |
| Marc the plastics fan | 13 Sep 2016 11:14 p.m. PST |
I use the Vallejo polyurethane white primer from a bottle these days. Sticks REALLY well to Airfix (but less well to HaT – go figure, so many varieties of soft plastic available) |
| davbenbak | 14 Sep 2016 7:18 a.m. PST |
Please post some pics of your WIP. I recently salvaged some old Airfix minis I have from the late 70's. |
Yellow Admiral  | 14 Sep 2016 11:56 a.m. PST |
I use the Vallejo polyurethane white primer from a bottle these days. That's good to know, thank you. Since I can probably get that one by walking into a local store, that's now Plan A, phase B. :-) Sticks REALLY well to Airfix (but less well to HaT – go figure, so many varieties of soft plastic available) <sigh> So true… You're making my head hurt. :-( - Ix |
| jhancock | 14 Sep 2016 2:20 p.m. PST |
Use Liquitex Acrylic Gesso, which is not smelly. Goes on thick, but shrinks as it dries to reveal details. I've had problems with the newer polyvinyl plastics and some petrol based spray primers. They never dry and can remain sticky for a lifetime, even when clear coats are appled. Never had that issue with Liquitex Acrylic Gesso or the Vallejo brush on primers. However, Liquitex varnishes have been reported to cause problems. |
| jhancock | 14 Sep 2016 2:21 p.m. PST |
Use Liquitex Acrylic Gesso, which is not smelly. Goes on thick, but shrinks as it dries to reveal details. I've had problems with the newer polyvinyl plastics and some petrol based spray primers. They never dry and can remain sticky for a lifetime, even when clear coats are applied. Never had that issue with Liquitex Acrylic Gesso or the Vallejo brush on primers. However, Liquitex Varnishes are rumored to cause tackiness with the newer plastics, but not for me. |
Sgt Slag  | 14 Sep 2016 3:05 p.m. PST |
Yellow Admiral, I use Acrylic Gesso, as well, when I need to prime my plastic figures, but typically, I don't primer them at all. I paint directly onto the washed plastic, then I seal them with The Dip. After that, I have had no issues, as the urethane flexes with the paint, over the surface of the plastic. Gesso works well, though, too, but I believe the external urethane coating is the key, not the Gesso. Cheers! |