"10mm tanks" Topic

I'm going to prime white (yes, no)?
Base coat
Wash (I've read about applying washes with toothpicks…what's that about)?
Highlight

Couple questions

1) Is there a brand of wash you prefer? Would black acrylic thinned with water work?

2) About the wash. I've read somewhere that people apply their washes (on 10mm) with toothpicks to just the areas of concern. Does this work well or am I better off with the old way?

3) Mud on tracks….how the bloody blazes do you get this effect? Is 10mm still too small for those MIG muds?

Thank you for any tips/suggestions!

Yes, though you could use a gray primer as well.

I wouldn't use black to prime with for this small scale, since it'll make the minis too dark, but I imagine many do, so…..

I'd use a small brush for the wash application. Many recommend sealing with a gloss coat, before washing, to help the wash flow.

I'd go with a dust drybrush on the tracks.

For 10mm I basecoat in the primary colour, desert yellow for late German etc olive drab for Allied. Add red/green camouflage where appropriate, gun metal on tracks, rusty brown on exhausts, paint any storage, wash in black/brown ink, varnish.

Toothpicks? never tried that.

link

I would prime with whatever you're used to using.

1) I use thinned Citadel washes; "Agrax Earthshade" for my Russians, and "Nuln Oil" for my (panzer grey) Germans.

2) I never heard of toothpicks. I use a big ol' brush to slop it all over the vehicle.

3) I use an old small ratty brush and just sort of stipple the mud paint all over the tracks wheel and lower hull. I use Americana "Mississippi Mud", then follow with Americana "Khaki Tan" if i want it to look dryer.

I do use a black wash,but
1.use a little extender medium,to slow drying time. It gives the wash a chance to work its way into the crannies. I use it on all washes. They vary in potency--Golden,for example,is very efficient--a drop or two usually does it.

2. Best to use distilled water. Paint,especially washes,tend to gather around the minerals in tap water.

3.Normal rule of thumb is,smaller the scale,lighter the paint. I use a craft paint called "Caramel Corn" for panzer yellow in 10mm,for instance. Looks light,until it gets the wash,and gets on the table. I also give edges a light rub with graphite,which also tones it down some,in addition to giving a metallic sheen. You'll have to experiment.

I see models with tracks that are all mud,or all rust. Steel-faced tracks rub that off somewhat when they move,so some bare metal shows. Take a look at the catapillars at a construction site,for ideas on that,and mud too.

I clear coat with 4 part water, 1 part acrylic floor polish. Once dry, I add a drop or 2 of black ink to the mixture and wash. Seal with a clear matte spray.

I paint tracks rust for all tracks. I do a dry brush of earth tan, light across the top of the model, heavier on the hull and heaviest on the tracks and fenders, then a light dry brush of silver on the track ends. I know from 1:1 scale gaming, any tank will be covered in dust and mud 5 minutes after leaving the paved road.

Save yourself time -- prime with colored primer.

Wash wheels and sprockets with Vallejo Strong Tone (or Dark Tone).

Wash around detail with super fine brush.

Highlight with primer color; second highlight with lighter shade.

Paint and highlight treads.

Done!

See my samples of painted Pithead 10/12mm at:
TMP link

Thank you folks!