| War Monkey | 29 Jul 2016 7:31 p.m. PST |
Okay so a different take on basing, using 1/4 inch washers, after mounting figures on the washers with super glue I then use wood glue to make a smooth transition from the base to the washer, I can do a lot of them in a short period of time and it takes two applications of wood glue to get the effect, one as a filler and the next as a build up. I allowed each application to dry over night before applying the next application of glue.
As above, you can see the three stages, mounting to washer, first application of wood glue to fill in the washer and gaps, then the second application to round it all out, looks a little like a pitchers mound. More pictures here link Thanks for looking
Doug
silo1313.blogspot.com |
| Hafen von Schlockenberg | 29 Jul 2016 9:08 p.m. PST |
Yes,been using the washers for years. I still use DAP,with some paint mixed in (dk brown or green,depending),in case I get a chip. For some urban combat WWII figs,I mixed some brick and concrete rubble bits (commercially available,but I forget who makes it),and sprinkled it over white glue,followed by a black wash to tone it down a bit. Came out OK. You might try it,if you do mostly urban. Of course,my guys were fighting through a bombed-out city,and they might look odd in grass. BTW,have you priced the large 5 pound boxes? I bought a couple years ago--don't remember the price,but considerably cheaper,per washer,than the smaller packs. |
| Mako11 | 29 Jul 2016 9:31 p.m. PST |
Looks good, and I like the way you are hiding the minis base, but those look more like 15mm diameter washers to me, in overall width. Is that true, e.g. about 5/8" outer diameter. |
| Dennis | 29 Jul 2016 10:33 p.m. PST |
Horses for courses, but I prefer fender washers because the hole is smaller and can be filled when you glue (I prefer epoxy) the figure to the washer in a single step-fender washers also tend to be thinner than most ordinary washers. If you need lots of them, you can get 3/4 inch (od) fender washers for $0.02 USD each and free shipping if you buy 1250 here: fmwfasteners.com Dennis |
| Ashokmarine | 30 Jul 2016 4:39 a.m. PST |
Interesting idea. I am surprised the glue doesn't roll off? What brand are you using that is that thick? |
| Mute Bystander | 30 Jul 2016 5:06 a.m. PST |
As was suggested to me, "Pennies, they are cheap." Edit: Of course I use 3/4" squares and 20/15mm circles from LITKO for my infantry figures. And I pretty much exclusively am buying 15/6/3 mm figures also. |
| War Monkey | 30 Jul 2016 7:28 a.m. PST |
Mako11
1/4 inch washers refer to the size of the hole in the washer. Aahokmarine
I'm using just plain old Elmer's wood glue and just glob it on so it kind of looks like donut dough and a little mounded as the glue dries it will shrink. |
| Weasel | 30 Jul 2016 8:44 a.m. PST |
Nice idea. I use this "modelling paste" I got from a craft store. A tiny bit pricey but it lasts a long time, you basically just smear it on and it dries rock-hard. |
| erraticassassin | 30 Jul 2016 11:42 a.m. PST |
I generally base my minis in a fairly similar way, but using two-part epoxy glue: it's thick enough that you can build up the base in one go, applying & sculpting the shape with cocktails sticks. I also cover the built-up glue with sand, than tap the excess off when the glue's cured, to give it some texture. |
robert piepenbrink  | 31 Jul 2016 3:51 p.m. PST |
Herr von Schlockenberg, for urbans, I just use a grayish "ballast" our of the model railroad shops. Put down a coat of Elmer's mixed with black ink, dip it in the ballast and let dry. If you're not happy with the shade, another wash of glue and ink--or a drybrush--sets you up. Units fighting on Barsoom get the reddish "iron ore" ballast, and no ink. I suppose I ought to glue skulls to the urban SF bases. Evidently it isn't really urban SF without skulls these days. I blame Terminator II. |
| Hafen von Schlockenberg | 31 Jul 2016 4:29 p.m. PST |
Yes,RP,that was it--model RR ballast. Been so long,I forgot. Those bags last a long time! Didn't add skulls to the WWII bases,either. |
| Sharanac | 03 Aug 2016 6:00 a.m. PST |
Good thing with the washers is that they are metal, so if you have magnetized board they stay in place. This is especially good for 6mm and 10mm figures. I base them on 3mm washers. |
| Gnubrid | 03 Aug 2016 6:50 a.m. PST |
Masochist that I am, I file, file, file the integral base until it's rather thin and glue onto a penny. |
| John Treadaway | 03 Aug 2016 10:47 a.m. PST |
Nowadays, my supply of brown grouting has been replaced with brown basetex and now home made 'basetex': 40% dark brown emulsion paint; same amount of PVA and 20% sand. Made a couple of litres a while back and never looked back. Figures are stuck (superglue or hot glue, depending on model type) onto round metal bases 2p coins), round MDF for miger bases or square Renedra depending on what sort of infantry I want to model. Bases need little extra texture: some small cork chips or tallus. Then grass tufts (colour appropriate) and then dry brushed. Figures go multiples to a single base.
John T |
| Psyckosama | 13 Aug 2016 10:34 p.m. PST |
I use fender washers too… they're steel. Therefore they're magnetic and I use magnetic strips in my figure case. |
| tjansx | 15 Aug 2016 5:59 p.m. PST |
Hafen, when you say DAP, do you mean spackle, or silicon caulk? |
| tjansx | 15 Aug 2016 8:48 p.m. PST |
Ps. I tried the glue method tonight. We'll see how it goes. Easy to apply though! |
| Poniatowski | 03 Apr 2017 4:53 a.m. PST |
Just seeing this now… but yes… for 28mm figures, I have been doing this for years upon years.. that and modeling putty that hardens… works great on 28s!!! |
| War Monkey | 03 Apr 2017 9:39 a.m. PST |
I really like the way it looks, yeah they look a little baseball mound like but that's okay, I just paint them a lite gray and call it done considering most of my gaming is in urban and build up areas I want the focus on the figures and not the base for looking out of place. |
