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"Gluing plastics to non-plastics" Topic


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506 hits since 21 Jul 2016
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Personal logo Extra Crispy Sponsoring Member of TMP22 Jul 2016 11:12 a.m. PST

Trying to kit-bash some buildings using greebles (juice lids, yogurt cups, scrap bases etc.).

I've tried a few things to keep plastic glued to other materials but not happy with any results so far.

White glue: non starter.
Super Glue: Pops the instant a flexible part bends.

2 part epoxy? Contact cement?

Appreciate specific brands/products.

Thanks.

Garand22 Jul 2016 11:15 a.m. PST

If you have it, try Gorilla Glue. It stays a little flexible after curing. Also the epoxy does the same.

Damon.

robert piepenbrink Supporting Member of TMP22 Jul 2016 11:36 a.m. PST

Two-part epoxy for me when I'm formal and the contact area is small, but Omni-bond has a surprisingly wide range. You just can't easily apply it in small quantities.

Flexible plastics are always worse than polystyrenes, but you can improve your chances a bit by hitting it with very fine grade sandpaper--emery paper, really--or the emery board you'd use on fingernails.

Chris Wimbrow22 Jul 2016 11:42 a.m. PST

I've had glasses I repaired with epoxy last for decades. That's with frequent washing, towel drying, and tissue polishing.

That has involved slathering it on the outside of the broken frame. But I've also repaired chips or broken handles on ceramic cups that hold hot coffee and get the dish washing treatment.

But I use flexible coffee can lids or the like (usually a translucent material) as my epoxy mixing palette. The excess cures quite hard, but peels rather cleanly off that style of plastic with the previously mentioned bending.

Bottom line, sometimes you just have to make repairs after a gaming session.

Personal logo Pictors Studio Sponsoring Member of TMP22 Jul 2016 11:50 a.m. PST

Epoxy is the best thing I've found.

Bunkermeister Supporting Member of TMP22 Jul 2016 12:02 p.m. PST

Make sure the plastic is clean. Use a very fine sandpaper on the surface to be glued. A rough surface will glue stronger than a smooth surface. On particularly difficult items, I put a bit of gap filling super glue on one side and 5 minute epoxy on the other side.

bsi-inc.com/hobby/hobby.html

Bob Smith is sold in almost every hobby shop, often re-branded with the store name. They make both super glues and 5 minute epoxy.

I have also had success with a product called Goo. It comes in a carded tube. It is sold in model railroad stores. Use it as a contact cement, put a bit on one side, press the two parts together, pull them apart so the carrier will evaporate, then put them back together to stay.

link Amazon sells it but it's probably cheaper if purchased locally.

Good luck.

Mike Bunkermeister Creek
Bunker Talk blog

cloudcaptain22 Jul 2016 12:07 p.m. PST

I use E6000 glue. Has instant holding power and once dry holds well. Can take some flex. Very smelly initially though. The Loctite Silicone glue is a close second.

VVV reply22 Jul 2016 12:14 p.m. PST

2 part epoxy for me. Available in a variety of strengths depending on the set time.

nevinsrip Sponsoring Member of TMP22 Jul 2016 12:37 p.m. PST

GOOP!

zippyfusenet Inactive Member22 Jul 2016 12:39 p.m. PST

Epoxy works for me on just about everything.

Chris Palmer22 Jul 2016 12:42 p.m. PST

Another vote for E6000. I like it becuase you put a little on each piece, let it cure for a few minutes, and then press the two pieces together for an instant bond. No need to figure out ways to support/hold odd pieces together while the glue sets up like with epoxy.

myxemail22 Jul 2016 1:39 p.m. PST

Walther's Goo, from any train shop. Flexible if needed. I have been using the stuff for about 40 years. It is very good when gluing two different materials together

Mike

Oberlindes Sol LIC22 Jul 2016 8:18 p.m. PST

Thanks. I'm planning on doing some of the same kind of work later this year.

Noble Crow23 Jul 2016 8:15 p.m. PST

JB Weld two part epoxy. The quick setting kind

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