 Extra Crispy  | 22 Jul 2016 12:12 p.m. PST |
Trying to kit-bash some buildings using greebles (juice lids, yogurt cups, scrap bases etc.). I've tried a few things to keep plastic glued to other materials but not happy with any results so far. White glue: non starter.
Super Glue: Pops the instant a flexible part bends. 2 part epoxy? Contact cement? Appreciate specific brands/products. Thanks. |
| Garand | 22 Jul 2016 12:15 p.m. PST |
If you have it, try Gorilla Glue. It stays a little flexible after curing. Also the epoxy does the same. Damon. |
robert piepenbrink  | 22 Jul 2016 12:36 p.m. PST |
Two-part epoxy for me when I'm formal and the contact area is small, but Omni-bond has a surprisingly wide range. You just can't easily apply it in small quantities. Flexible plastics are always worse than polystyrenes, but you can improve your chances a bit by hitting it with very fine grade sandpaper--emery paper, really--or the emery board you'd use on fingernails. |
| Chris Wimbrow | 22 Jul 2016 12:42 p.m. PST |
I've had glasses I repaired with epoxy last for decades. That's with frequent washing, towel drying, and tissue polishing. That has involved slathering it on the outside of the broken frame. But I've also repaired chips or broken handles on ceramic cups that hold hot coffee and get the dish washing treatment. But I use flexible coffee can lids or the like (usually a translucent material) as my epoxy mixing palette. The excess cures quite hard, but peels rather cleanly off that style of plastic with the previously mentioned bending. Bottom line, sometimes you just have to make repairs after a gaming session. |
| Pictors Studio | 22 Jul 2016 12:50 p.m. PST |
Epoxy is the best thing I've found. |
| Bunkermeister | 22 Jul 2016 1:02 p.m. PST |
Make sure the plastic is clean. Use a very fine sandpaper on the surface to be glued. A rough surface will glue stronger than a smooth surface. On particularly difficult items, I put a bit of gap filling super glue on one side and 5 minute epoxy on the other side. bsi-inc.com/hobby/hobby.html Bob Smith is sold in almost every hobby shop, often re-branded with the store name. They make both super glues and 5 minute epoxy. I have also had success with a product called Goo. It comes in a carded tube. It is sold in model railroad stores. Use it as a contact cement, put a bit on one side, press the two parts together, pull them apart so the carrier will evaporate, then put them back together to stay. link Amazon sells it but it's probably cheaper if purchased locally. Good luck. Mike Bunkermeister Creek
Bunker Talk blog |
| cloudcaptain | 22 Jul 2016 1:07 p.m. PST |
I use E6000 glue. Has instant holding power and once dry holds well. Can take some flex. Very smelly initially though. The Loctite Silicone glue is a close second. |
| VVV reply | 22 Jul 2016 1:14 p.m. PST |
2 part epoxy for me. Available in a variety of strengths depending on the set time. |
| nevinsrip | 22 Jul 2016 1:37 p.m. PST |
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| zippyfusenet | 22 Jul 2016 1:39 p.m. PST |
Epoxy works for me on just about everything. |
| Chris Palmer | 22 Jul 2016 1:42 p.m. PST |
Another vote for E6000. I like it becuase you put a little on each piece, let it cure for a few minutes, and then press the two pieces together for an instant bond. No need to figure out ways to support/hold odd pieces together while the glue sets up like with epoxy. |
| myxemail | 22 Jul 2016 2:39 p.m. PST |
Walther's Goo, from any train shop. Flexible if needed. I have been using the stuff for about 40 years. It is very good when gluing two different materials together Mike |
| Oberlindes Sol LIC | 22 Jul 2016 9:18 p.m. PST |
Thanks. I'm planning on doing some of the same kind of work later this year. |
| Noble Crow | 23 Jul 2016 9:15 p.m. PST |
JB Weld two part epoxy. The quick setting kind |
experiments with Finger Drills.