| alien BLOODY HELL surfer | 20 Apr 2005 6:25 a.m. PST |
Dances with Words mentioned on a thread about SST making bug holes. A friend of mine who makes scenery is interested in making some for retail - does anyone know of a good source of pictures he can utilise? Thanks alien |
| Procopius | 20 Apr 2005 6:36 a.m. PST |
Also, if anyone has any other pieces of terrain or other stuff related to SST they want moulded, you can contact me at fernvalespecialtyscenics@yahoo.com.au and I'll then have a look and see what we can do. Cheers. Pro... |
| alien BLOODY HELL surfer | 20 Apr 2005 7:30 a.m. PST |
And there's the man himself :-) Glynn, whether or not you do some commercial release pieces I'll have some orders for you mate - talk on msn later about it :-) |
| Turtle | 20 Apr 2005 7:39 a.m. PST |
The three types of tunnel entrances are 4" in diameter. The bug central entrance entrance is 6" in diameter. |
Dropzonetoe  | 20 Apr 2005 7:55 a.m. PST |
bug holes are easy to make. Just use the tin from a individual pot pie. Flip it over and push in the center. this also works making craters. adjust to tastes and sand, flock, paint and your done |
| Eric O | 20 Apr 2005 8:24 a.m. PST |
@Dropzonetoe I can't believe I've never thought of doing that with my old pie tins. O.o |
| Dropzonetoe | 20 Apr 2005 9:24 a.m. PST |
I used that on my urban game board a lot. I wish I could claim credit for the idea, but it was a fellow gamers |
| Mlatch221 | 20 Apr 2005 9:34 a.m. PST |
Here's a site with the "pie tin" technique that dropzonetoe mentions. warfactory.co.uk War Factory is frames-based, so I don't know if this will work but here's the (non-frames) direct link to the "how-to" page for the "pie tin" craters: link |
| Tonari no Totoro | 20 Apr 2005 10:47 a.m. PST |
I think that this was also featured in the GW Terrain book they published some years ago. Maybe I should stop buying in wargames products and sell job lots of pie tins, ice lolly sticks and pipe cleaners on our stand ;-) |
| Steve Hazuka | 20 Apr 2005 1:57 p.m. PST |
I used the pie tin method also. Makes great volcanic craters. Swirled in red and orange paint then after it dried put a couple layers of Woodland Scenics water in it. Oh yes drop a few BB's in the paint. Makes bubbling lava. |
| alien BLOODY HELL surfer | 20 Apr 2005 2:59 p.m. PST |
Sorry - I was thinking of the larger cave type entrances - I like the idea for the bug holes though :-) |
| Lolbat | 20 Apr 2005 3:36 p.m. PST |
- bug holes are easy to make. Just use the tin from a individual pot pie. Flip it over and push in the center. Make sure that they are 4" wide though Bugs get an expanded armour save if they are touching the hole so if it is too big the bugs get an advantage and if it is too small they get shafted |
| captain arjun | 21 Apr 2005 1:38 a.m. PST |
Pot pies? I though it had something to do with bacon instead... |
| Detailed Casting Products | 21 Apr 2005 10:32 p.m. PST |
Here is another way to make a crater or bug hole (if you ate your chicken pot pie and forgot to keep the tin). Get some styrofoam sheet (mine was 1" thick), and a "wonder cutter", which most know is a battery powered foam cutter, found at most craft stores. Drinking a lot of coffee (or tea) is required in order to get that "shaking hand" quality that helps in the cutting detail (heh). Hold the cutter at the desired angle and jiggle the cutter (remember the coffee?) as you form an off-round shape. The photos below represent 4" holes. Now cut a line toward the center (like you were drawing a radius), but reverse the angle of the cutter. Make the top cut follow the "ridge" that you made earlier, and remember to keep a reverse slope on the cut. After tracing the hole ridge all the way around, nudge the cutter out the same "radius" cut in order to keep it as clean as possible. I didn't throw away my "donut holes" as they make separate hillocks on the table (placed upside down), or combined with the other piece to form a larger hillock. If players agree to a house rule, there might even be a use in SST where you stop moving the tunnel marker and have one action where the "filled" hole is placed on the board, prior to it being an opened usable hole. Keep in mind that I haven't played the game yet, but was just considering the option. Make sure to NOT paint your foam with spray paint, other than water based. I use Krylon "H2O" water based spray paint, and under coat with dark brown. When that coat is about a third dry, I put a light brown top coat that mixes a bit with the base coat while it dries. While this method doesn't include a meal with the instructions, it does give you something to wash that pot pie down with if you wish to do both ideas. OK, the coffee break is over, troopers, so let's go kill some bugs! picture picture picture |
 Dances With Words  | 22 Apr 2005 10:50 a.m. PST |
And scifi does it again! first the fort, now bugholes....(but I still like the way supersculpy works too...and then pietin idea)... Come to think of it...more than one type of 'bughole' (to go with different planetary surfaces), wouldnt' be a bad idea...a tropical forest/planet tunnel (Tesca) vs 'hot/volcanic' planet (Tophet), vs Pluto or iceteroids, etc....(waterworlds aren't an issue...?)...but CAVE entrances or those 'funky tubes' to underground hives...might be interesting...and Klendathu vs Planet P Tunnels....etc... Tunnel fighting is a 'BEAR'.... Lock n' load Apes, we're making like moles!
Lt DWW Crazy 8's squad... |
| Detailed Casting Products | 22 Apr 2005 11:22 p.m. PST |
Many thanks, Dances With Words! BTW, I'm working on some tunnel entrances, or the "funky tube" entrance that you so elequently described above.  Supersculpey rules, too. Making gameboards based upon the "environmental" flavors would be fun, but so far I'm sticking with the "Planet P / Klendathu" look (or perhaps if the bugs invade Earth at Hell's Kitchen, Wyoming, lol!). I might wait until Monday to see how to make a tunnel entrance look right on my game board as well as to work with within the rules (game comes Monday). I have three 2'x4' panels made to go with my 2'x4' fort base, but there is only 2" of clearance in front of the fort, so unless the battle is inside the fort (ahem!, flashback to the movie), I need some charging room for the bugs in a fort assault. I can drop off the fort base section and make a 4'x6' area or a 4'x4' area. I found the panels at a local Home Depot, in 3/4", 1", 1-1/2", and 2" sizes. I'm using 1" and 2" panels so far. The coating can peel off to allow for "decorating" with acetone. Acetone works like tanker bug plasma, but in very small amounts it pits the surface very nicely, then evaporates. If you don't like messing with this stuff (use caution and proper ventilation), using spray paint eats away at the surface too(!). My bug holes are just extentions of my game board panel materials. |
