"Play area size adjustments" Topic

Hi, I hope to start naval gaming using 1/3000 scale ships. I am looking at several ruleset right now and all seem to be scale "adjustable" but I do have a very limited area to play on, only 50"x36".

Has anyone else adjusted their rules to work with such a small area? I will not be using more than a dozen ships per side probably way less. I am thinking about using hexes 2.5 – 3.5" hexes seem to work for the 1/3000 ships. Any input would be very helpful. Thanks.

One way to get a lot of "space" on a small table is to divide the table in to three parts. Make 40% of the table for Side A and the opposite 40% for Side B. Then mark the middle 20% as an out of scale distance.

For example, with your space, Side A gets 20" x 36" at one end, Side B 20" x 36" the other. The middle 10" can represent as much "sea" as you need.

So at the start of the game the middle section might be, say, 48" in game scale. So to measure a shot you measure from Firer to Target, then add the differential (48" nominal – 10" actual) = 38. So if the ships are 20" apart on the table you treat the range as 20+38=58. As the fleets close, you reduce the amount of sea (say, on turn 5 it might only represent 31").

Just ignore the angles involved as far as ranges. You could do the geometry but as both sides get the same dis/advantage just ignore it.

6"=1000-yds
1/1200 = 1/2400 = 1/4800 = 1/6000 =
10k yds 288" 144" 72" 60"
8k yds230" 115" 58" 48"
172" 86" 44" 36"
58" 28" 15" 12"
0-58" 0-28" 0-15" 0-12"
Use the appropriate range for the space you have

that's no good. Send me a e-mail and I'll send you a scale reduction chart.

I would use 1/6000 scale ships. Better detailed than most 1/3000, easier to paint and store.

Interesting ideas. Thanks for the responses. As an aside question, where do people usually measure off naval miniatures if hexes are not being used? Using hexes might really bite into space usage. Sorry, I'm a total newb. My email: nandofilter(at)gmail. com Thanks.

Maybe 1/6000 would have been better but I already purchased a 2 mini fleets from mick yarrow minis. Just waiting for them to arrive. I suppose I could sell them off and try 1/6000 we'll see.

We always measure from the foreward funnel.

I would suggest 1/6000 ships as well, given the small size of your playing area. At a scale of 1" = 1000 yards, and if you assume a maximum WWII BB visual fire control range of 28,000 yards, your table would give you plenty of room in which to maneuver, for a small-to-medium-sized battle. For carrier battles, use Extra Crispy's split table idea, above.

WRT to ground scale, any rules can be used with any ground scale. For example, I use the original General Quarters rules (again available from Navwar in UK). Although the rules specify ranges in "inches", I have annotated the rulebook/charts to show range/movement in 1000s of yards. Then I set my table scale to meet my needs (currently 1" = 1000 yards, measured with a tape measure).

Furthermore, you can use hexes, or not, with no sacrifices as to space. Actually, I am planning to convert my playing area to a hex grid, when I get around to it. A numbered hex grid will allow me to play remote opponents, using a computer program I am designing.

Here are some 1/6000 ships, on my game table, using chalk wakes for atmosphere. Each turn you move the ship, draw the new wake, and wipe a damp sponge across the old one. Works like a charm. Just don't let the chalk get on the models.

Mark H.

One other thought about model scale is that most Figurehead 1/6000 destroyers and smaller come cast to metal bases. If you don't want bases on your models, they have to be removed, which requires some modelmaking skills (see my post in this thread, near the bottom TMP link). 1/3000 DDs, OTOH, are not cast on bases. So, since you already have purchased some 1/3000, perhaps you could lay a few out on your table, assume a table scale of 1" = 1000 yards, and see if they look OK, or if they look too close together. 1/6000, of course, is half the size, and will not have that problem. I suggest 1" = 1000 yards because you want enough room to do something like Battle of the River Plate, where the British cruisers split into 2 groups to flank the Graf Spee.

FYI, here's a typical 1/6000 cast-on-base DD, as received from Figurehead (the metal one at the top):

Mark H.

If you already have 1/3000 ships, I recommend you use them until you find a rule set and hex scale/system that works for you. Then, if you're happy with what you are using, you can always replace the ships with those of a different scale/size for the "better look" ratio of ship size to space.
Besides Crispy's excellent idea, you could also adopt the Avalanche Press method of using ship "speed" ratings with multiple firing per turn.
This subject was discussed 4.22.2013 and 5.22.05 so you can look back at the WWII Naval discussion of this forum for a few more ideas (and the same discussion of 1/6000 vs 1/3000). The older one also discusses using GQ1-2 (available again!) with hexes as Hinds states.
Older boardgame rules like AH's Bismark, CA, and other rules (grand fleets) are also suggested too. CA used a 22x36 hex grid so your hex mat should be usable for must rules.
A lot depends upon the abstraction you can accept for the rule set you want to use. A rivet counter may have difficulty even using hexes in a naval game let alone many rule sets out there. ;-)

>>>I already purchased a 2 mini fleets from mick yarrow minis. Just waiting for them to arrive.

I'd be very interested to hear what you make of these when they arrive!

Easiest is to use the Centimetre Rule – if your ruleset specifies inches, use centimetres. Don't worry too much about the distance distortion as long as you're having fun: many rulesets use 1" = 1,000 yards anyway.

That said, I'm also a 1:6000 convert – beautifully detailed and maintain a sense of range.

Nick

To illustrate the points above (regarding 1:6000) here are some photos:

Removing the bases from destroyers is pretty simple; I used a sprue cutter to remove the base and then filed down the excess depth. For WW1 destroyers I mount 2 to a base.

So far as detail goes they're better than most 1:3000 – here's HMS Queen Mary:

And as to the illusion of distance, there's only about 24" between the Hood and Prince of Wales in the foreground and the Bismarck and Prinz Eugen in the distance:

With 1:3000 models the distances do appear too short but I'll be honest and say that its never stopped me enjoying a game! Here's the Battle of the River Plate on a 5' by 3'6" table:

Happy gaming!

Nick

Easiest is to use the Centimetre Rule – if your ruleset specifies inches, use centimetres. Dont worry too much about the distance distortion as long as you're having fun: many rulesets use 1" = 1,000 yards anyway.

That said, I'm also a 1:6000 convert – beautifully detailed and maintain a sense of range.

Nick

Thanks for all the input. I'm keeping some of the 1/3000 to test but also placed an order of 1/6000 ships.

Wow, 1/6000 are teeny, but pretty cool. I am thinking about basing them on 2" hex mdf bases for ease of handling and ship data. Like this :