afilter | 18 Apr 2016 10:46 a.m. PST |
I recently did an article describing the approach we took to basing troops for Black powder. Specifically, we currently play AWI and Anglo-Zulu, but soon to expand to ACW with the release of the new ACW supplement. link Enjoy! |
Frederick | 18 Apr 2016 11:19 a.m. PST |
Interesting For Black Powder I have my units for 4 figs on 40 X 40 mm standds |
afilter | 18 Apr 2016 11:41 a.m. PST |
Federick, that is basically what happens when I combine two bases. I chose to keep them separate for other rule sets like regimental Fire and Fury where you remove stands as casualties. |
79thPA | 18 Apr 2016 11:49 a.m. PST |
Interesting that you are mounting your colonials as singles; that gives you a lot of flexibility with other rules, but I am sure you already know that. |
afilter | 18 Apr 2016 12:03 p.m. PST |
79thPA, Definitely not an accident. I learned long ago to try and base as universally as possible. ;) |
raylev3 | 18 Apr 2016 1:34 p.m. PST |
For our Napoleonic games our games group felt the 20mm x 20mm per figure size, with four figures on a 40 x 40, left too much space between the models….they looked too spread out. We opted to go for a 30mm frontage by 40mm depth…we think it looks more liked the close ranks used then. |
BelgianRay | 18 Apr 2016 1:40 p.m. PST |
Briljant was the (for me) following statement : " In any particular game/scenario a unit will never change size no matter how many times it takes casualties. This mechanic is dealt with through morale. As a result, you could play Black Powder with colored blocks of wood, but that would not be much fun for us miniature war gamers who enjoy maneuvering well painted figures on the table." That is exactly why I NEVER go for rules wich are stand driven with no casualty removal : play it boardgame stile, no need for figures, and no "realistic" feel. Peronally I do more or less the same as with the Zulu's. Allways base individually (Napies being the exception, but with a variation). I always base on steel washer squares (take less space than round ones). The Zulu's are 4 deep, I would split the movement tray in 2 deep (for flexibility). Plastic card is also the way to go for movemnt trays for me. I do the following : Cut movement tray to required size depending on the army involved. Blue tag or use a drop of wood glue (white) to put the 2cm Perry plastic bases in the desired array on the tray (if warband is what is needed), that way you can make them look as "not so coherent" unit. Fill the space between them with polystyreen and let it dry, after wich I remove the Perry plastic bases and paint the polystyreen in the same way as figure bases. Glue 2cm squares of magnetic foil (commercially available pre-cut) in places where the 2cm bases were. Glue a steel foil under the whole movement tray (commercally available with sticking side). Put polystyreen on the innitially used 2cm Perry bases and paint them the same as the movement tray. Now i can remove figures at will and put a "blank" Perry base in it's place, not disturbing the overall look of the movement tray, but reflecting the "attrition" occured. The steel foil under the whole movement tray helps me moving everything. I use plastic containers lined with strips of magnetic foil glued to the Bottoms of the containers, that way the whole movement trays with the figures stays in place and you do not spend precious gaming time stetting up your army. I know this is extra work (less than you think), but it looks ….on he table and saves you oh so much time repeatadly stiing up afterwards. |
Father Grigori | 19 Apr 2016 4:06 a.m. PST |
I use Black Powder for 6mm games. My AWI stuff is all based on 2cm by 2cm bases, which seems to work quite well. It also has the advantage that I can use the basing as 'modular' for other rules. |
MajorB | 19 Apr 2016 7:47 a.m. PST |
I use Black Powder for 6mm games. My AWI stuff is all based on 2cm by 2cm bases, which seems to work quite well. Very interesting. I do exactly the same thing for my 6mm Napoleonics. |
mashrewba | 19 Apr 2016 9:52 a.m. PST |
Well that's the beauty of it -any basing works!! I do this – 2 bases for standard, 3 for large etc link |
Part time gamer | 29 Jun 2016 5:24 a.m. PST |
Have played a few BP games, they work pretty well. I have taken a bit of a liking to the unit 'fatigue/wound' count, rather than removing stands. BUT still part of me likes to see units being 'cut down to size' to reflect casualty effect. IF I could get any of the local BP players to go along w/ it, my idea is a 'combination of the 2 systems: Optional play version: Every 3-5 hits (players decide before game) make a moral check. If the unit fails Only One stand is removed. The 1st 3-5 markers are removed, any over that number remain on the unit. Game continues. When a unit is down to only 2 stands (or 1/2 original strength), and they take the 'set' number of fatigue pts/wounds, again make a moral check, this time if they fail THEN the Unit is removed from the game. In short they've lost half their men.. their worn out.. the survivors withdraw. |
SylvainIndiana | 02 Jul 2016 5:11 p.m. PST |
I like mine with 6 figures on a 2" by 1.5" stand for simple reasons. 2" is an easy divider for frontage. They fit perfectly in my Plano boxes. And I can use them for the 3 rulesets I like. Warfare in the age of reason. Honors of war. Black powder. Also I have units of 24 figs. |
Winston Smith | 03 Jul 2016 10:15 a.m. PST |
I base troops for my own system. It's a single rank of 3 figures on a 2" x 1" base. It works almost universally, except for skirmish games. I also have a lot of steel washer based figures I can put on the same size magnetic base. If the rules call for single rank of troops (1776, Age of Reason, Patriots and Loyalists, etc) I use them as is. If the rules call for double ranked troops (British Grenadier, Black Powder, etc), I just double rank the bases. |
Stepman3 | 06 Jul 2016 8:50 a.m. PST |
Single base and movement trays for anything 15mm and up… |