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"Greenstuff frustration" Topic


19 Posts

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Brian Smaller06 Mar 2016 7:54 p.m. PST

I have been trying to convert some miniatures and using green stuff has convinced me that the people that make our miniatures for a living are mad beyond calculation.

I have limited patience (I mean throwing things out the window when I get frustrated type of limited patience) and this greenstuff is pushing my limits.

I have watched every tutorial out there, have the sculpting tools, the clean work space, the jar of water and the damn stuff sticks to everything in creation except the model I am trying to attach it to. If the tools were any wetter I would be doing it under water.

Aarrgghhh!!!!

nevinsrip06 Mar 2016 8:01 p.m. PST

Good, so it's not just me.

Grelber06 Mar 2016 8:05 p.m. PST

A very thin coat of Vaseline (petroleum jelly) on the tools sometimes helps keep the green stuff from sticking to the tools. They also say it is best to let the green stuff sit for a bit (15-30 minutes) after you mix it up, and directions/tutorials don't make this at all clear.

Personally, I can do an OK job (barely) of adding belts or pouches, and I'm not too bad at changing loin cloths into skirts, but that's about the limit of my skill.

Grelber

Brian Smaller06 Mar 2016 8:07 p.m. PST

I am sure there are plenty of us greenstuff challenged people out there.

I gave up on epaulettes and used thin paper instead.

Brian Smaller06 Mar 2016 8:15 p.m. PST

A very thin coat of Vaseline (petroleum jelly) on the tools sometimes helps keep the green stuff from sticking to the tools.

Apparently so. Vaseline must be different down here – tried that too.

I attach a piece to the model and start working it into shape and it comes away at the far end. I get that back on and it comes away at the other end. I try to merge it into another piece and both end up coming away.

Hitman06 Mar 2016 9:28 p.m. PST

Same here….I try to keep the tools wet at all times which helps to a degree.

Now that I think of it…it makes sense why more modellers are using computers to craft our figures…they have probably had enough of this same problem….

CeruLucifus06 Mar 2016 9:30 p.m. PST

I'm no expert, but you need to work in stages. Do one piece on one side, work into shape, let figure sit so it hardens. If piece comes off glue on with superglue or tiny dab of epoxy and let dry again. THEN put piece on other side and work on it.

Zephyr106 Mar 2016 9:47 p.m. PST

I have an old roll of gs that I still use, though it is a little stiff to work with (especially if it is -cold-.) I mix in a tiny bit of brown stuff* to soften it, and also to make it stick better.

"A very thin coat of Vaseline (petroleum jelly) on the tools sometimes helps keep the green stuff from sticking to the tools."

Greasy stuff of any kind can also keep the gs from sticking to surfaces. Use water. ;-)

* brown stuff = go to hardware store, look for 2-part epoxy putty used for gas tank repair. Same as & much cheaper than the bs sold for modelling purposes

Aidan Campbell06 Mar 2016 11:51 p.m. PST

I've been sculpting professionally for years and do a fair amount of teaching/demonstration work at exhibitions and the above complaint is not an usual one amongst beginners.

Remember that chemically it is based upon epoxy resins used as an adhesive so it is meant to be sticky. Use that to your advantage when trying to get the greenstuff to stick to an armature but don't try sculpt it when it's very fresh.

Get rough blobs onto the armature when freshly mixed then give it another 10-20 min before attempting too much rough shaping and up to an hour or so before working really fine sculpting. If you are the impatient type it's far too easy to want to get going too soon rather than let the putty firm up a bit


I've never once bothered with or tried things like Vaseline that others recommend, just keep your sculpting tools clean and smooth so there's less for the epoxy to stick too, and when first applying the freshly mixed putty keep the tools wet.

Kropotkin30307 Mar 2016 12:16 a.m. PST

I have worked with both Greenstuff and Milliput. If you are having trouble with Greenstuff switch over to Milliput-fine-the white box one. It is far less sticky and personally I use it more for modelling with straight lines eg vehicles as it seems to suit that sort of project more than Greenstuff which I use for bodies.

Hope that makes sense.

Brian Smaller07 Mar 2016 12:54 a.m. PST

I've been sculpting professionally for years and do a fair amount of teaching/demonstration work at exhibitions and the above complaint is not an usual one amongst beginners.

Thanks for the good advice. To be honest I reckon this is the last time I will do this :) I will keep professionals like you in business instead.

ironicon07 Mar 2016 9:47 a.m. PST

You have to let the Green Stuff, cure for about 20 minutes or so. Then it becomes easier to work with.

leidang07 Mar 2016 9:51 a.m. PST

Patience. As Aiden Campbell says above you have to work in stages and let things set the right amount before proceeding. I usually have several things I am working on at once so I can alternate working on them and let the other s set. I also intermix painting to kill time while greenstuff is setting.

Mugwump08 Mar 2016 7:19 a.m. PST

Green stuff has stages that must be paid attention to if you are to sculpting with it.

0-15 minutes: Sticky! Use this time to attach things.
15-45 (60) minutes: Shaping, use time to shape the green stuff and continue shaping it as the epoxy will have a tendency to "ball up" and lose sharpness of shape.
60-90 minutes: Detailing. By this time the epoxy is stiff and you can cut in details without losing them.
24 hours+: Sharpening. Use a scapel, X-Acto knife or whatever to cut in final details, corners, ect., as the epoxy will be stiff enough now.

Other hints:
Green Stuff is non-toxic so you can lick your tools to keep them from sticking. DO NOT DO THIS WITH ANY OTHER EPOXY PUTTY OR MIXTURE!!!

Professionals work on three miniatures at one time to keep from having "dead times", waiting for the epoxy to reach the next phase.

Heat and humidity affect gs working time. The higher the heat and humidity, the shorter the working time.

If you need to step away put the partial sculpt in the refrigerator-not more than 24 hours.

Brian Smaller08 Mar 2016 12:06 p.m. PST

Thanks for all the advice. I have completed conversions on twelve Perry ACW cavalry figures turning them into British Auxiliary cavalry for the Ango-Zulu Wars. Once I got them undercoated I felt a lot happier grin

Ivan DBA08 Mar 2016 6:15 p.m. PST

I use vegetable oil instead of water on my tools, and have no problems with stickiness.

Jefthing12 Mar 2016 2:57 p.m. PST

Saliva!

All my figures made with greenstuff have included copious amounts of drool, but it's still far easier to use and less messy than miliput.

Bashytubits26 Mar 2016 9:28 p.m. PST

You might want to be careful about the saliva. If there is something that chemically can dissolve in saliva it could be very bad for you.

Jefthing29 Mar 2016 12:57 p.m. PST

I was a kid in the 70s. I've put so many E numbers and dodgy food colours into my body I am more of a threat to the greenstuff.

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