"Thinning paint for an airbrush" Topic

I'm finally going to get out my air brush and put it to work. I know I'll need to thin my Vallejo paint first. But where do you thin it? Right in the cup? Since I'll only need very small amounts I can't imagine thinning in a jar first?

I use three items to this airbrush paint. Do not be fooled by fancy airbrush paint thinners. It is windshield washer solvent. One can buy airbrush paint thinner for six or seven dollars for 10 oz or get a gallon of solvent for a couple of bucks. Do not worry about the dye in it. The dye does not affect the paint color. I have a jar, 24 oz Spaghetti sauce jar to be exact. I fill it with windshield solvent and add fluid retarder by Galeria and flow improver by Artist's Acrylic. I follow the mixing directions. Paint can dry out quickly when using an airbrush. If the air is very dry, the paint can dry in the air before it even hits the miniature. These two additives will alleviate this issue.

I put my thinning solution in the airbrush reservoir, about 50 to 50 mix with the paint. Though this depends on the paint manufacturer. The paint thinner mixture should have the thickness of 2% milk. If you are using Vallejo Model color, 50/50 mix will do. The consistency will depend on the model of airbrush that you use. The diameter of the tip you are using and How much PSI one is using.

Mike

Do your mix in the cup. Some Vallejo paints can be used straight from the bottle., for example the primersand I imagine Vallejo air too.

I use Vallejo air straight from the bottle, or Vallejo Model Colour mixed with thinner and drying retardant in the cup.

Thanks. I will use Windex as a thinner (the guy who showed me the basics uses it).

I had really bad luck and the first vallejo paint I ever used with an airbrush had a ton of precipitate in it and was a nightmare to clean (it was just their regular line. prussian blue I believe) . I'm probably just unlucky in this regard as I haven't had other issues since I tossed that one.

You may want to take a close look at your paints before using them though.
I'd also make sure that you can assemble/disassemble the airbrush when it's dry and you aren't dealing with paint, etc. I ended up downloading the schematic for mine b/c the one that came with it was so bad.

Windex mixed in the cup seems to work well.

I wouldn't use Vallejo Model Colour in an airbrush, while others have had success with it, I've only had nightmare cleanups as a result of any attempt. I've used windex, distilled water and a variety of thinners.

Whether you thin in the cup, or in the bottle, I found the secret to using Vallejo Model Color is it must be thoroughly mixed, and shaking won't do it. I pop the nipple off, and work the paddle of a Badger-style mixer to the bottom of the bottle. (You will need to file the paddle down so it fits through the top. I also made a baffle to corral the splatter.) At this point you may need to add a little thinner to get a uniform mix. Once the paint is in the cup, thin it to the consistency you need for your particular airbrush. Also, with MC a drying retardant is a must-- I use a product by Goldens that works well.

One other piece of advice. If you are ever going to use Tamiya,use their thinner. Tamiya is an alcohol based paint any other thinners do not do the paint any favors.

Mike

I have found that Vallejo paint + Tamiya thinners works well in an airbrush.
They probably shouldn't [given that the former is water-based and the latter alcohol], but I read about this mix somewhere. I shake them up well in a small bottle with a "dropper" end [you can get a number of these for a few pounds in Hobbycraft in the UK] that allows me to control easily the amount I put into the airbrush cup.
And I can also store the mix for many weeks without it going off.
I use c. 50:50 paint:thinners.
Only problem is cleaning the bottles when empty: anything I've tried (soap or detergent) makes a horrible gunk [this is probably the various constituents not mixing well] that is hard to get off bottle brushes, fingers etc. I suggest you just resign yourself to chucking them out when done.
I always clean the airbrush thoroughly with thinners and then a (spay) foaming cleaner.
Does anybody else do something similar / have any hints how to clean the bottles?

I thin mine in an old 35mm film canister: pretty smooth and easy to clean. I've used Vallejo Model Color mixed with distilled water and it worked fine. Sometimes I add a drop of "flow aid" but not much. Tamiya I use their thinner.

In addition to what has already been said, I always use an rather fine artist paint strainer when working with my airbrush. I am amazed at how often it catches small particles of dried paint or other impurities.

As to the original poster, yes, I strain into the cup on the airbrush and do the mixing there. It is helpful if you have some place to set it while mixing. I use the stand on my Iwata cleaning pot which allows me to pipette in through the strainer and then stir/mix as I add in thinner or retarder.

Very useful discussion! I will swallow my embarrassment to ask: has anyone tried craft paints in an airbrush? I seem to recall someone in an old MWAN describing several straining through cheesecloth. I use mostly craft paints for brushwork, and there are some shades I'd like to try on vehicles,but don't want to go through the fouling incidents related above.

I have no practical experience with using craft paints in an airbrush. I would hesitate to use craft paint, because the pigment is not as finely ground as in hobby paints. I would presume one could have clogging issues.

Mike

Tamiya with 90% isopropyl alcohol. have never used their expensive thinner.