"Painting plastic figures with enamels?" Topic

Three blog entries in 2 weeks – must be a miracle. Anyway, they have a Culloden bias but see what you think at:

link

Morning peeps,

Has anyone painted any of the Gripping Beast plastic figures using Humbrol enamels?

I have been advised that thinned coat of PVA over the paint will help protect the paint from peeling if they get squeezed/bent by clumsy fingers. Any opinions on whether this solution works.

I've avoided plastics but am tempted by the newer sculpts and mouldings in 28mm. However I hate acrylic paint so it will be Humbrol enamels.

Thanks for any advice.

No good asking me. I stopped using enamels years ago (too messy, ruined good brushes and poor coverage/quality) and don't like plastics or 28mm much either.

In the years when I did Airfix and some odd hard plastics with Humbrol I found that paint stayed on well under most conditions if adequately varnished.

I see no reason why you would have problem with hard plastic figures. The PVA thing is for soft plastic figures so I think you would be able to paint straight onto the plastic. I haven't used enamels for a long time (the fumes used to make me ill) but in my youth I used to paint Airfix Multipose and Collectors Series figures with enamel never had any issues. You might want to give them a quick was first with hot water and washing up liquid…

No problem whatsoever and no special prep needed. The PVA thing is for soft plastic not for the hard styrene that is used by companies like GB, Perry, and Conquest.

I recall learning from hobby industry sales handouts that hobby enamel paints like Humbrol and Testors brands are specifically formulated for use on hard styrene plastics, which has been the standard material used for 50 years for popularly-priced display model kits.

The petroleum solvent used in hobby enamels very slightly dissolves the surface of the plastic and creates a hard bond between paint and plastic. There is no need for any primer, since the paints are normally quite opaque and bond tightly to the model's surface, nor for any varnish finish, unless to blend in and protect decals. You can't scratch hobby enamel paint off hard styrene plastic once it's dried, you have to file it down.

The old Floquil model railroad paints on the other hand, used a tolulene solvent that ate up styrene plastic. They were formulated for direct application to metal railroad kits, and needed a primer when used on styrene.

Thank you chaps. You've provided me with some new and valuable information there.

I've taken the plunge and ordered a box of the GB Dark Age Warriors.

Thanks again for your time.

The old Floquil model railroad paints on the other hand, used a tolulene solvent that ate up styrene plastic. They were formulated for direct application to metal railroad kits, and needed a primer when used on styrene.

You didn't need a primer to apply Floquil RR colors onto plastic, but you did neeed to use special techniques. Brush painting was right out, but if you airbrushed them and did it in thin, misting coats, worked great. I know from experience. The solvent indeed was harmful to plastic, but that solvent action does the same thing as enamel only moreso. You just have to be extra cautious when airbrushing with no barrier coat.

Damon.

Henh…airbrushing with tolulene…recommend industrial breathing apparatus, ventilation, NO OPEN FLAMES!!!!!!!!!!!!

It's a wonder you and I have any liver function at all left.

Sippy, that might be due to other factors!

I use a painter that uses Humbrol enamels, exclusively, on both metal and plastic figures. They turn out great and the metal figs NEVER chip!!

Enamels are very tough even without varnish. I've had old, unvarnished figures packed loosely in bags for years that have suffered no damage to their paintwork.

Zippy, that's why you inoculate your liver with a couple bottles of a fine Bourdot beforehand…. Gah'!