| ferg981 | 27 Sep 2015 9:34 a.m. PST |
All This is kind of a multi-pronged question so i'll try keep it brief a) Does anyone use the foundry painting system – it's very expensive however my question is simple – have your paints ever dried out (due to the pots they are in)?? b) If you were to advise against the foundry painting system, what Vallejo blue would you use for dutch-belgians? c) what vallejo paint would you recommend for highlighting black? Thanks J |
| MajorB | 27 Sep 2015 10:03 a.m. PST |
a) Does anyone use the foundry painting system – it's very expensive however my question is simple – have your paints ever dried out (due to the pots they are in)?? No I don't use it. b) If you were to advise against the foundry painting system, what Vallejo blue would you use for dutch-belgians? Dark blue c) what vallejo paint would you recommend for highlighting black? Grey |
| jeffreyw3 | 27 Sep 2015 10:32 a.m. PST |
a) It's not necessary to "use the system"--the paints are very nice, although early on there were some howlers. I will sometimes use them in the base/mid/hilite, other times on their own. Bay Brown, Leather, Spearshaft, Moss, Phlegm, Dusky Flesh, Flesh are quite useful for Napoleonics. My Foundry paints were purchased in 2006, 2007. Still working after 7 moves. For highlighting black--depends on what the black is. For cloth or felt, you could use Black Grey and then add a lighter gray to it. For leather, German Grey, which has a bluish tint. There are any number of ways of doing it. |
| idontbelieveit | 27 Sep 2015 10:36 a.m. PST |
I've had my Foundry paints from when they first came out. None of them have dried out. I've run out and replaced a few triads. The one problem I've had is plastic lids cracking from age. You need to glue the crack or you will get some drying paint. Agree with Jeffrey on the recs on highlighting black. If you're looking for alternative paints I wouldn't go to Vallejo but to Andrea. They have an extremely nice blue set (best paint I've ever used) and I also like the red and black sets and get lots of use from them. |
| MH Dee | 27 Sep 2015 10:49 a.m. PST |
A friend who runs my local model shop recently suggested using a flesh tone to mix with black for highlights. It was an unusual suggestion I may try – he's an award-winning painter too. |
| VonBlucher | 27 Sep 2015 10:54 a.m. PST |
MH Dee,
I also mix flesh to black to highlight black, I've also mixed flesh to a dark blue to use as a highlight. |
| steamingdave47 | 27 Sep 2015 12:22 p.m. PST |
Never have used Foundry paints or the triad system- looks very unsubtle to my eye. Very happy with block painting, Magic Wash and dry-brushing.
As for black, I use Payne's grey acrylic for most blacks, diluted it gives a nice wash over a white base coat and the slightly bluish tone produces the right sort of highlight, especially good for "black" horses. |
| Timmo uk | 27 Sep 2015 2:24 p.m. PST |
I mix all my own tones so really there is no point in me paying a premium for Foundry's triad sets. I can buy Vallejo locally a bottle at a time as needed. Vallejo and Andrea are apparently made at the same factory, I wonder what the difference is in quality. I don't use Vallejo for dark blues. If I did I'd probably mix two blues to get the exact hue and tone I want. Black, as noted above. My quick and simple way is with German grey but often I make up my own tones. |
| Zagloba | 27 Sep 2015 3:11 p.m. PST |
Javier Gomez' 'Painting Wargames Figures' book describes a Foundry-like manner of painting, but using Vallejo paints. He gives formulas for a wide range of 'triads' although most involve some mixing. Worth getting if you like that style of painting, it does a really good job of avoiding the 'step 1 block color step 2 miracle' problem most painting books have. |
| Auspainter | 27 Sep 2015 4:30 p.m. PST |
Similar idea but try adding a little pink to your blacks to produce a nice and soft highlight colour |
| Ssendam | 28 Sep 2015 2:38 a.m. PST |
I don't have any foundry paints, but I've not heard bad things about them. I use Vallejo almost exclusively but some colours that don't get used for a while can need a bit of attention. They don't dry out but they do settle and the solute tends to 'gather' in the business end making for an odd colour that needs more than a good shake to shift. (you get used to it, all colours have their quirks). Another vote for adding a pink to black for a highlight, it works for me. I learnt that from the Javier Gomez' 'Painting Wargames Figures' books. |
| XRaysVision | 28 Sep 2015 6:56 a.m. PST |
I've never had a dropper bottle dry up. However, like others, I've had the solids settle out. I use the Robart hobby paint shaker: link A few seconds on this puppy, and you're good. When I'm in a paing session, I'm frequently manually shaking a bottle, but when I first pick it out of the box, I'll put it on the Robart. There is also a battery operated model. BTW, the little rubber strap on the top will eventually break. Not to worry, a rubber band is just as good. It is strong enough for small glass bottles like Testors enamels or Acryl, but I wouldn't stress it with heavier bottles than that. Mine has given me years of excellent service. |
| Kellerman | 30 Sep 2015 2:22 a.m. PST |
I have been using them for the past seven years and I am fully satisfied, Never dried out. |
| von Winterfeldt | 02 Oct 2015 3:54 a.m. PST |
I like the Quality of the foundry paints, as for the triads you can make up your own, foundry apart my next favourty is Coat d'armes, None of them purchased years ago did dry out |
| Keith T | 11 Oct 2015 9:46 a.m. PST |
I do use the Foundry paint, so far none have dried out. I love their flesh tones and do the Dark/medium and highlight
Boy does it look good. They are expensive but the pots do seem to hold more paint than GW, you do not waste as much paint as Vallejo.
Keith |
paints his first three ships from the starter set.