"Army painter dip on 1/72s?" Topic

Hi experts,

Just as the title says, does anyone use that army painter dip on their 1/72s? Does it work well? I assume there wouldn't be any issues but wanted to make sure before I take the plunge, as I haven't seen any pics of the stuff used on soft plastic figs yet, and it's expensive. It seems like it would speed up the process and protect the figs at the same time.

thanks!

I use it on 15mm figures but I paint it on rather then dip, I can control how much goes on. So if I can do that with 15mm figs you can do that with 20mm.

I've used Minwax on 28mm figs, brushed on. Works fine for me. I did find that white coats just look dirty. So I used a cream colour instead. This worked much better.

I use if on everything now, from dig resin Dino's to 10mm sci/fi stuff and everything in-between (even a vinyl deform Godzilla kit).

Never used it on 20mm soft plastic but I can't see it not working to be honest. I too paint it on , it's too dear to "dip and flick" and as stated you have more control.

My blog has my 20mm German and Polish WW2 pictures on….

link

See bottom of the page, and yes the Dystopian naval stuff is Quickshaded too.

Cheers Roger.

Anything that has good detail on it will work with Minwax. I brush it on on both 15mm and 28mm.

Which minwax works best? I tried some out… must have been twenty years ago when I was a kid and I remember it just made the figs sort of yellow. Is there a particular shade that works best?

I use Minwax Tudor Satin.
Oddly enough I've only found it at an Ace Hardware.

After much experimentation, I've gotten my best results from Minwax Polyshades Tudor Satin OR Antique Walnut.

Thanks for the info on the Minwaxes! I looked on their webpage and didn't even notice the Polyshade products, so I'm glad I asked!

I want these for my Napoleonics that I ordered. I want them nice enough to go inside these two fancy display cases I was recently given, but fast enough so that I can quickly put together some armies for games. It seems like the washes are the best way to achieve the desired result. I'm going to a hardware store tonight so Minwax will be on the menu!

Yes. On WW2 Soviets and Germans, at my blog:

link

Loved Soviets (Strong Tone Quick Shade). Germans so so (Dark Tone Quick Shade.

I've used army painter dip on 1/100th sf figures and vehicles which are pretty close to 1/72nd

For example this lot link

Much of the stowage is soft plastic of some sort (prepainted Hobby Master).

I think it was pretty successful.

John T

John Treadway- those look great, just the transformation I want on this job. I have to call the hobby store and see if they have the army painter stuff. I'll definitely be getting some minwax too. When my 1/72 Naps get here in a week or so I'll see if I can't get a side-by-side comparison up on the blog… although I may have to change the name of it then! Definitely excited to try out the new scale.

Dick Garrison- nice looking ships! My return to the larger scales should be interesting.

I use the Army Painter "dip" on my 1/72 and it works great. With my Naps and Imagi's I have varnished them with Klear first to help the bright colours stay that way, but otherwise the Dip is great. My WW2 respond really well to it.

And, yes, I brush it on.

And forgot to say – it is a great varnish for 1/72 – seems to have a lovely flex to it, so I am not losing paint on my soft poly figures. Army Painter that is, no knowledge of Miniwax.

But I am a committed Army Painter fan – I can get it and it is consistent.

Ok- got the American Walnut last night. And, I called up my local hobby place and they're going to order some Army Painter strong tone as well. They have the dark one in stock but from what I've seen that would be a bit too much for Napoleonics. So I'll wait on the strong. I'll definitely be posting some pics of my 1/72s on my (otherwise 3mm) blog. I'm especially excited to try out some of the ideas I've had for basing over the last few years during my micro-scale hiatus.

Ooh. A blog. Where?

1809in3mm.blogspot.com

Normally just 3mm but plastics are coming! I also have some old ACW Perry minis I want to repost from a long time ago. People have been asking for them.

Rats – wouldn't open. I have a feeling I have visitied it before though. When it wakes up I will try again.

Great blog! I've added it to my favorites so I can keep up with your progress. I'm back to 1/72 Napoleonics after a 30 year hiatus. Also liked your battle map ideas.

Seen it now. Great mat.

Boy oh boy though, are you going to find 1/72 and the terrain a LOT bigger. Can't wait to hear how you get on

Dave and marc- glad to hear you liked the blog! I got some more balsa strips so there will be another to-do on making buildings shortly I suspect…

So, I tried out the American Walnut over the weekend on a 1/72 samura figure. Man, did that work out well! All I had to do was block-paint the cavalry figure in basic, one town craft paints, then hit it with the polyshade. Bam! So easy. If it's that effective on samurai I can't wait to see how it works on Napoleonics. I need to figure out how I'm going to base up these guys…

just be careful of your whites (and other facing colours). As I said up above, I gloss mine first and it really does help. No idea re American Walnut but no reason to suppose it won't work exactlylike Army Painter.

The Samurai work because they have such great detail. Naps, by nature have less. I recently "dipped" (you know what I mean) some French dragoons in the strong tone (ie brown dip) and they came out rather tasty – Italeri figures. I use a dark grey for black, so the dip adds shading to it, and go a shade brighter (so my dragoon green was reasonably bright pre-dip). I use bright gold for "brass", etc etc. The dip is not a "cure all", but I find it softens and ties together all the details.

Oh, and horses – I go for a light-mid brown, and let the Army Painter do the rest. Dark grey harnesses again.

Hope it works out for you.