"Changing from Mixwax to Future Wash" Topic

Ok, for several years I have been using Minwax Tudor Polyshades to shade by 15mm and some of my 28mm stuff. However, this crap takes forever to dry. I have heard about using Pledge Future instead of this stuff (indeed I have some at home already). What is the process for this? I am assuming there is a ratio of ink to polish. Also, what inks do people generally use (actual inks or paints)?

All you need to know…

link

Thanks for that. Minwax does not typically "stain" the initial paint job like other washes. I understand that by the book one should gloss coat a figure before applying washes. With Minwax one does not have to perform this step. Does the same apply to the Magic Wash? Or, does one have to gloss coat to prevent staining?

Interesting, I have never had a problem with minwax taking more than 5-12 hours to dry (no more than leaving it overnight).

Yeah, the thing with minwax is when I am setup to paint I want to get it all done at one time. Coming back the next day is not always possible with my life. I like the effect it gives though.

I would recommend giving it a try straight up. I have experienced no benefit to cutting it. Cutting it may make it runnier than I might like. When mixing in your tinting color make sure you stir it up well to mix in the pigment completely.

There are a million ways to skin a cat if I'm allowed to mention such a thing….

I dropped Minwax because of the foul aroma mostly,the lengthy drying time and the waste of brushes. I use diluted Future. It doesn't eat brushes and dries in less than an hour.

I love using it. I've been doing it since the early 90s. I mix it up per use. The ratio depends on how dark I want it.

Also: link

More focused on uses for plastic modelers, but still useful.

Doug

I use both, but I prefer Minwax. Minwax requires no mixing. Regarding brushes, I buy the baggie of 30 school paint brushes, for $1 USD, at Wal-Mart. I use one, and throw it away, when finished. They cost me roughly 3 cents each.

As to drying time, I have baked metal (including home-cast figures made of Model Metal -- low melting point, but still undamaged by the baking), plastic, and resin figures, in my oven, for up to an hour, at 170 F, without issue. It dries the Minwax completely, with only a dull-cote needed. The only issue with the baking, is that I cannot put anything with Hot Glue on it, into the oven…

I like Magic Wash (Future/Pledge + Acrylic Paint -- un-cut, I only use it full-strength as water thins and weakens it), but I love The Dip, and I prefer The Dip whenever possible. I also prefer Royal Walnut, a dark brown, which makes the figures look like they've been slugging it out in the dirt and mud, but I use the Tudor as well. It depends on what my application calls for, as to what product I use. I find, however, that probably 90% of what I use is the Royal Walnut Minwax. Cheers!

I've sworn by Polyshades since I first tried it about a decade ago – decided to try the Future mix just for a comparison – had lots of trouble finding 'Pledge with Future Shine' as it is called these days – finally did but still haven't played around with it yet as I am plenty happy with my Antique Walnut Minwax Polyshades for most things.

I don't have any issues with MinWax. But then I tend to brush it on and do batches of 50+ 15mm figures at a time.

The mix I've mostly been using is 100 ml Klear, 40 drops brown ink, 5 drops black ink. I've also used a half-strength mix, a dark mix (40 drops brown, 10 drops black) and a very dark mix (80 drops brown, 10 drops black).

The Klear:ink ratio will depend on the brand and colour of ink, so you will need to experiment a bit.

I like Minwax. Not changing.

Yeah, I prefer Minwax. I have not had much problems with brushes either. Simply wipe off the excess and then quickly swish it in some mineral spirits and you are good to go.