| Red Over Blue | 17 Aug 2015 5:41 a.m. PST |
I have just completed a guide outlining the "hairspray paint chipping" technique I have been using lately on my vehicles. I cannot claim to have come up with the idea, rather it is widespread across the internet. I present my take on this popular technique. Come check it out: link |
mysteron  | 17 Aug 2015 6:18 a.m. PST |
Your correct in what you say it isn't new. However you have worded it more in laymans terms which makes it far easier for a beginner to try . |
| Winston Smith | 17 Aug 2015 6:26 a.m. PST |
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 Condotta | 17 Aug 2015 6:43 a.m. PST |
Thanks! You have many useful techniques and your photos and narrative are easy to follow. |
| 45thdiv | 17 Aug 2015 6:52 a.m. PST |
I don't paint many vehicles, but I like the post you did. Something to keep in mind if I ever do vehicles. Matthew |
| elsyrsyn | 17 Aug 2015 9:12 a.m. PST |
Nice tutorial! Thanks! Doug |
| Red Over Blue | 17 Aug 2015 7:00 p.m. PST |
Ditto Tango 2 3, The durability of the finish was also a concern of mine when I began experimenting with this technique. You will notice that I finish all my vehicles with a coating of Army Painter dip (directly from the can). This adds a small amount of shading, but more importantly it acts as a super durable varnish. With this applied along with a mat varnish, it would be seriously difficult to damage the finish. In fact, I just finish another model using this technique last week and accidentally dropped it onto the concrete floor in my basement (this was after the dip was applied and dried). Though the gun barrel of the vehicle was bent, there was not a single scratch or paint chip on it. If you are not a fan of using the dip, a strong gloss varnish would easily fit the bill, followed by a mat spray. I hope this helped! |
| Hornswoggler | 17 Aug 2015 11:45 p.m. PST |
Is it the hairspray that makes the basecoat (dark yellow or the Ktylon khaki colour you mentioned) easy to come off? Does this last? I'm thinking about handling later in games. I know you do a matt varnish afterwards, but if the hairspray makes for a weak bond, I'm wondering about the integrity of the paint over it. Maybe it'll be like track rot and in about 10 years time we will discover that hairspray actually dissolves your models :o) |
| Bill Slavin | 19 Aug 2015 6:37 a.m. PST |
Thanks! Very good tutorial. |
| Marc at work | 21 Aug 2015 5:36 a.m. PST |
Ok, looks nice. But can I ask a question – why is this better/easier than painting the damage back on at the end? Not trolling, just curious – I have never done this level of detail, but I remember seeing details of how to paint the primer back on in places, so really would like to know if anybody has tried both methods, and why one ended up better/easier than the other. Thanks |
| Marc33594 | 21 Aug 2015 4:09 p.m. PST |
The 1/35th scale crowd has been using this technique for awhile now. It looks more natural Marc. The paint wears down to the primer. When you paint the primer back on, many times, it looks exactly like that, like it is on top of the paint. Also easier to work on areas where wear takes place. More natural process to rub away the paint in high traffic areas or leading edges. |
| Winston Smith | 21 Aug 2015 6:53 p.m. PST |
Does this make the paint job more fragile for handling while gaming?
Is it more suitable for display? |
| Red Over Blue | 22 Aug 2015 5:37 a.m. PST |
With a gloss varnish (or as I use in my technique, the Army Painter dip applied with a brush) the vehicle is just as durable as any other. If you scroll up and check out my comment dated Aug 17th, I describe what happened when I dropped a vehicle painted with this technique onto a concrete floor. SPOILER ALERT: no damage |
been building and painting his own army for Flames of War for a while now.
