"Question for WW2 10mm gamers (non skirmish)" Topic

Quick question for you 10mm WW2 gamers….who like bigger battles

How big is your table? Do you have enough space on your table if you want 20+ vehicles plus the appropriate number of guns/infantry?

Do any of you have a blog with pictures of your tables?

Would you go 6mm if you had to start over?

I game armor in 10/12mm I typically use a 10x6 foot table.

Pics on ODGW.com (look in the Gallery)

Thanks

Although I started with 20mm, I did it over and went with 6mm (GHQ). Here is a link for our group, Dulles Wargaming Club. This page contains AARs with loads of pictures. Most of the early games are skirmishes, but if you keep clicking, you'll see where the company level games begin (near the middle of the pack). That's when we made the switch to 6mm. Now we've started on Modern and we're having great fun with larger games (5x6' table).

brittonpublishers.com/DWC.html

I have several.
2x2
2x3
3x3
4x4

I've run 6mm for 40+ years now.

I like to play games with a re-enforced company (more or less) per player. If a big enough group can be put together, we wind up with a battalion or two per side.

I use a ping-pong table for my game table.

Even if most of the combat will take place in a small focused area …

… I like the ability to maneuver around the focal point.

Kenny and I both use the same ruleset (Mein Panzer from Old Dominion Gameworks), and some of my battles can be found on the ODGW.com site. Look in the ODGW Forums/After Action Reports section, for 6 AARs in the BATN-PP series (Bay Area TankNet Pewter-Pushers).

link

You can also find several of my battles on the GHQ Forums under the AARs: Show Us Yer Games thread.

link

-Mark
(aka: Mk 1)

Table setup: 6'x5', lots of room for more than 20 tanks and everything else.

Pictures…
Normandy: link
Korsun Pocket: link
Tikvin: link

Happy with 10mm for WWII, Korea, and Vietnam. 1980s modern will go 6mm.

As soon as you say 20+ vehicles, 6mm probably becomes the more natural choice.

My own preference is 10mm and my table ranges from 2' x 3' to 3' x 4'.

I like hexes.

I game at maybe 6 vehicles to a side and 6 – 10 infantry sections

Here is a link to one article and there are plenty of others that run off from it in the labels bar to the side.

Link – link

1. Table 6' x 4'
2. 20 AFV would be OK if armour heavy. I've done this for Eastern Front.
3. I'll try to find pics
4. I've thought of 6mm but prefer 10mm

Edward

I play BKC2/CWC WW2 and Cold War in 10 mm. Here is an entire Soviet regiment vs. 2 US battalions on a 6x8' table.

link

For WW2, we routinely run 20+ vehicles, infantry and artillery on 4x6'. With 1 base representing a platoon, we have put an entire Soviet WW2 tank corps on a 6x8' table with room to maneuver.

I had extensive 6 mm and 15 mm collections, but replaced them with 10 mm. I find 10 mm gives the advantages of both scales. 10 mm is the smallest scale where the average gamer can recognize vehicles and infantry across the table.

We play Battlegroup Barbarossa and Blitzkrieg in 10mm using up to 8 x 5 feet table as a max, but sometimes only 6 x 4. Certainly accommodates plenty of armour- had a Barbarossa game with full company of BT7s, KV2 and a few other Russian tanks ( over 20 in total). More typically we have perhaps 8 to 15 AFVs with a couple of platoons of infantry and a few guns.

We usually use a 5' by 10' table, but sometimes use a 6' by 6' one. We usually have 20+ vehicles with no problems. I've played with micro in the past but wouldn't go back now. The size is better with 10mm and you don't really miss the extra room on the table.

Thanks for all the comments….beautiful tables folks!

But when I get to see 10mm on those tables I just can't get over how close everything is to each other. It just doesn't look to scale, at all.

So…..guess I have my answer :)

Thanks again folks

Wow , ever felt you've been had.

You'd probably have to measure it out to find what dispersal SHOULD look like.

A 10mm tank is about what? An inch long?
According to Google, a Sherman tank is a bit over 5 yards long.

So if two tanks are 2" apart, they'd be 10 yards apart if the ground scale is 1-to-1.

6 by 4.

I'd guess that the rules used makes a big difference.

Schwere Kompanie

Maneuover Group, no surprise as I am one of the authors. Big battles 8 by 6 but you can make that narrower an longer by dividing it almost in two, divider 6 ft long making a sort of 16 ft plus board 3 ft wide. Just about 600m wide and 4.8 km long. That's about a platoon defensive width and a company attack width. This gives a realistic depth to get the FEB and the MLR. 12MM is the ultimate. I will see if I have a picture or a map tomorrow.

This is a VERY simple 8 by 6, we do not do simple normaly but this was an experiment with a "Leaky" front where the defender had to protect the road but could be attacked from several routes. It needs about a company to defend but if just a probe proably only about a company in attcak if the objective is just to cut the road. As it was experimental I forgot the right cloth so the colour of the basis is very wrong.

link

There are a few other 1/144 bits on the same site. All modern but you get the idea. Most are 3D prints

I would not go to 6mm. Been there done that and rejected it as a useable scale. Its too small fiddley and unsuitable for the games I play. However its what ever floats your boat, that is my personal opinion only. 1/144 is to me the optimum, discovered very late in my gaming career. Basicaly its N gauge. With the vilages easily set out on a registed base so houses can be moved and replaced its the perfect scale unless you want very detailed urban fighteing when 1/72 is better. 28mm to me is more about the model than the game, so not to my personal taste.