| huevans011 | 20 Jul 2015 3:13 p.m. PST |
Can anyone suggest the strongest, most effective glue for lead figures?? I have been using hobby shop "super glue" to stick my little guys together and it's not that impressive. |
| Ashokmarine | 20 Jul 2015 3:18 p.m. PST |
Try the locate brand. I have been very impressed with it link |
| 53Punisher | 20 Jul 2015 3:19 p.m. PST |
Hmmm, wonder why? I've been using super glue for decades on lead and have had no problem. I've always filed down any area(s) to be glued until shiny so that a clean surface join was present. Also, I pinned anything that was questionable for added strength. I use Loctite gel as my go-to glue. Maybe change to another brand? |
| HistoryPhD | 20 Jul 2015 3:31 p.m. PST |
I've also never had a problem. Like 53punisher, I file the area to be joined until it's shiny, then I score the area. I always use Gorilla superglue gel. |
| jeffreyw3 | 20 Jul 2015 3:44 p.m. PST |
Everything I've stuck together with Loctite is still stuck. As noted, Gorilla is equally as effective. |
Dervel  | 20 Jul 2015 3:59 p.m. PST |
First of all pinning works wonders on large joints… For small parts I use Duro
link For large joints and dissimilar materials, 5 minute epoxy.
link
The epoxy is much stronger, but needs a couple minutes to setup. The joint will be much stronger though.
The separate bottles are much better than the dual syringe since you can store it for long periods of time. |
| Chris Palmer | 20 Jul 2015 4:08 p.m. PST |
Washing surfaces to be glued is also important. The mold release agent could be hindering the Super Glue. I don't know if filing would remove it, it could just be smearing it around. |
| JonFreitag | 20 Jul 2015 5:32 p.m. PST |
Two-part epoxy. When pikes or spears are affixed using two-part epoxy, they make a resonating "twang" when put under tension and then released. Very satisfying. When the same are affixed with super glue, they often break at the joining point. Super glue has much less tensile strength than epoxy. |
| DOUGKL | 20 Jul 2015 5:33 p.m. PST |
I have had good luck with "Loctite" and if I need something stronger I use epoxy. |
| Pictors Studio | 20 Jul 2015 5:39 p.m. PST |
Two part epoxy if you really need to glue a big thing together, otherwise super glue should cut it in most cases. I use either the Gorilla super glue or, and my preference, is the Instacure+ brand. Note that Gorilla glue itself will not work. One thing you should not use is the GW super glue, at least not the "thick" kind as it is terrible. |
| Todosi | 20 Jul 2015 5:40 p.m. PST |
For small stuff I use Gorilla brand Superglue. For larger stuff, I pin and use JP Kwik two part metal epoxy. |
Joes Shop  | 20 Jul 2015 5:42 p.m. PST |
I've been using Loctite Gel CA for the past several years: no issues and it lasts a long time due to bottle design (and keeping it in the fridge between sessions). |
| Winston Smith | 20 Jul 2015 6:15 p.m. PST |
Back in ye Olde Days , superglue used to be much more aggressive.
It was almost pure METHYL alpha cyanoacrylate. It did a much better job of bonding metal to metal, skin to almost anything etc.
Then lawyers appeared on the scene. It's now ETHYL etcetera.
Weaker bonds and diluted.
You need a real industrial glue to get that. Check the label. If you are lucky it might be methyl. |
| Rich Bliss | 20 Jul 2015 8:14 p.m. PST |
Loctite Super Gel Control. Make sure you have two flush surfaces. |
| Grimmnar | 20 Jul 2015 11:37 p.m. PST |
Too much glue is not a good thing. Grimm |
| christot | 20 Jul 2015 11:42 p.m. PST |
The best glue for lead is solder |
| Martin Rapier | 21 Jul 2015 2:44 a.m. PST |
For those hard to stick things I usually put a dab of blu tak on to hold it in place then slather it in superglue. The blu tak seems to react with the glue in some magic way and produces a very strong instant bond. Thanks for the info Winston, I thought super glue seemed a lot less sticky these days! Two part epoxy is probably the strongest, but a faff to work with. |
 Dal Gavan | 21 Jul 2015 4:59 a.m. PST |
The best glue for lead is solder Christot, only if it's low melt (less than 120°) and your iron's temperature is set to less than 120°. If someone uses the typical soldering iron bought in a hardware shop with standard rosin core "handyman" solder, eutectic solder or one of the 60-40 alloy solders, they'll end up with a melted figure. If you have the gear and know how to use low-melt solders I agree, nothing beats solder. Dal. |
| Mirosav | 21 Jul 2015 6:12 a.m. PST |
2-part epoxy (5-minute) or Loctite Super Glue Gel. |
| CeruLucifus | 22 Jul 2015 7:22 p.m. PST |
2 part epoxy. Superglue is for things that won't undergo the stress of gaming, or temporary repairs. I admit I do have some models I built years ago with superglue that haven't come apart yet. |
| Baranovich | 26 Jul 2015 5:23 p.m. PST |
I agree with the 2 part epoxy, that combined with pinning is the best solution for lead soldiers, particularly if there are big parts involved like dragons/monsters/large mounts. Super glue is best for plastics along with actual Testors plastic glue. My rule of thumb is generally use super glue for plastics with small parts, like Warhammer multi-part sprue kits. But you need to resort to a stronger adhesive for metals. |
| jwebster | 10 Mar 2016 11:38 a.m. PST |
Question for people using epoxy How do you hold the pieces in place while it dries/cures ? Thanks John |
| Zephyr1 | 13 Mar 2016 3:03 p.m. PST |
Putty or blue-tac, sometimes tape (if the mini co-operates… ;-) |
| mindenbrush | 25 Jul 2016 6:10 a.m. PST |
Araldite 2 part epoxy, used it for too many years to remember.
link
Not keen on the "5 minute" types, I never seem to get a solid bond with it.
I order it from the UK or buy 5 or 6 packs when over there.
Make sure the surfaces are clean, bare metal and provide a 'key' (roughened surface of pin) to help strengthen the joint.
Hold in place with bluetac. |
