"Brush on primer" Topic

Because of a hip replacement surgery, I'm unable to spray my 6mm stuff outside. I just received some Howard Hues black brush on primer.

Do I need to thin with water or use it straight from the bottle?

Any help would be great.

I'm sure I won't be the first to recommend gesso as a brush on primer. But, to answer your question, I would try un-thinned on a sample figure first. Thinning a primer can affect it's adhesion.

I would second gesso. Very easy to use and all that jazz.
Now to your question, and I don't mean this in an insulting manner, but did you read the instructions on the tin? I only ask as I am extremely guilty of not reading such things so, again, no offense meant! :)

Brush on Primers straight from the bottle in a wide variety of colours : VALLEJO

I haven't used the HH paints in a long time, but they always had to be thinned. Straight out of the bottle was like painting thick mud.

I use brush on Liquitex Gesso.

Gesso is also very thick when applied but shrinks as it dries. I would second RAFs suggestion to try it on a single figure to see how well it covers and how much shrinkage, if any, occurs.

Jim

Gesso Users;

I saw one report that black gesso easily rubs off. Is this true?

If yes, then it is not binding to the metal of the figure and so probably is not a good primer. Your thoughts.

For many years I have used Humbrol Matt White or Matt Grey as a primer. Straight from the tin with a brush. Works fine.

Gesso does not have a strong adhesion to non-porous surfaces, but I still happily use it as a primer… I seal my figures, after painting, either with Pledge Floor Shine (full-strength), or Minwax Polyshades Urethane Stain (aka, The Dip), so the low adhesion strength does not matter. They get a matte clear coat on top of the sealant. Have been using figures treated this way for several years, without issues. Cheers!

@IronDuke,
I have heard that gesso can be delicate when not fully cured. I leave my figures for at least 24 hours. Seems pretty tough at that point, certainly as good as most of the spray primers I have used. I have had some rubbing off the edges of things if I am not too careful, but I had the same experience with sprays.
That said, I don't generally use gesso for plastic(other than bases, as I just don't trust it that much but others here will certainly tell you different! :)
Overall, given its ease of use, cost, and decent toughness, gesso is great.

I am currently using a bottle of Bob Ross gesso. It's more of a chocolate brown/black than a pure black but it works pretty well for plastic miniatures and plastic vehicles in 1/72 scale.

I've used gesso on metal, plastic, and reaper bones with good results. I've found adhesion good after 24 hours. The only thing I don't use it on is resin.

I find gesso just as hard as other primers as long as it's been allowed to fully cure. Waiting 24 hours or at least overnight is a good guideline.

You can paint on top of it after a couple hours just like other acrylic primer. Just don't squeeze and scrape it yet.

I would second MajorB's suggestion of Humbrol especially No. 1 grey primer and of course black or white gesso. I've used both with good results. Good luck with the hip recovery!

Vallejo Black Surface Primer. Can be used in an airbrush, or brushed on. Its magical. They also do a Base Grey surface primer. Its very good as well.

I've been using brush on primers for the past 6 months or so. I've found that Gesso works best for plastics and that Citadel/GW Imperial Primer works great on metal. Vallejo brush on primer tended to flake off before I was done painting. None of them have the bonding of Krylon spray paint, so be sure to seal with some laquer when you're done. As with all these rec's, YMMV.