Help support TMP


"Questions about ink" Topic


8 Posts

All members in good standing are free to post here. Opinions expressed here are solely those of the posters, and have not been cleared with nor are they endorsed by The Miniatures Page.

For more information, see the TMP FAQ.


Back to the Painting Message Board


Areas of Interest

General

Featured Hobby News Article


Featured Link


Featured Profile Article

Magnets: N52 Versus N42

Personal logo Editor in Chief Bill The Editor of TMP Fezian wants to know if you can tell the difference between weaker and stronger magnets with 3mm aircraft.


1,026 hits since 19 Feb 2015
©1994-2024 Bill Armintrout
Comments or corrections?

BigNickR19 Feb 2015 1:13 p.m. PST

So normally I use the Army painter quick shade or Minwax poly shades block paint and then dip method. I have experimented a little bit with shading using watered-down black or brown paint, and overall am happy, but I want to grow as a painter.

I am interested in the fact that people say that you get better results using Ink. What type of ink should I use? Any particular brand or type that I should get? Where in the United States is a good place to acquire them?

thosmoss19 Feb 2015 1:20 p.m. PST

I've always used Windsor & Newton ink, although I think that's sort of like buying a Cadillac because people say you should. It used to be available through Hobby Lobby, although my local stores have cut back and maybe eliminated it from their shelves, anymore. There's an independent art store where I now buy my ink, when I need a refill.

But W & N Peat Brown, mixed with equal parts water and Future Floor Wax, form the foundation for most of my inking.

snodipous19 Feb 2015 3:36 p.m. PST

I'm not a fan of most of GW's products, but I really like their washes – Nuln Oil for black and Agrax Earthshade for brown. I have a sepia one as well that I don't like as much, it's a bit to yellow for my taste.

You will have very different results depending on the surface you apply the washes to, as well. I use mostly very matte paints, so my results are pretty consistent. I have a few paints that are more gloss or satin, though, and the inks perform very differently on those – much more blotchy and hard-edged. Something to keep in mind.

Cardinal Ximenez19 Feb 2015 3:51 p.m. PST

Second the GW washes.

DM

Goober19 Feb 2015 4:57 p.m. PST

I second the Windsor and Newton Peat Brown, although I use mine neat. I also have a chestnut brown which, over a white undercoat, makes a very fine wood effect.

G.

Halifax4919 Feb 2015 5:29 p.m. PST

If you can get the Army Painter products, their acrylic dropper bottles with their washes are superb. I have a stock on hand at all times. They have low stain factor, but flow great. Also, if you want to get a better result, gloss coat before the wash goes on. You can even selectively remove the wash by doing this.

Lego Warrior20 Feb 2015 8:03 a.m. PST

I just bought a load of Vallejo inks and washes and I must say I'm not impressed they don't seem to leave any effect at all!

Previuosly I have always used Coat de Arms and have been happy

Baconfat20 Feb 2015 6:20 p.m. PST

I knew a guys that primes his minis white, and then paints them with Vallejo inks and washes. They come out looking amazing.

Elenderil25 Feb 2015 12:35 p.m. PST

Some acrylics have a lot of tooth, that is they have a rough finish, which grabs the ink. Applying a gloss varnish will let the ink flow into the recesses. You can get a similar glaze effect from heavily thinned acrylics if they have a good level of pigment. Hobby acrylics don't have enough pigment.

I'm using a mix of old GW inks and I do mean old! Plus the Windsor and Newton peat brown ink. In the final analysis painting is an art not a science so experiment until you get the results you want.

Sorry - only verified members can post on the forums.