"The perfect gaming table" Topic

Sorry, this isn't a link or a how-to!

I'm keen to upgrade from my board-on-a-dining-table gaming table, and would like something purpose built. Since I'm making it from scratch I'm free to include any features I want, and in order to prevent myself from getting carried away and overlooking some important feature, I thought I'd ask the community what would be their perfect gaming table! So, what would be your perfect table? What size would it be? Would it have a border, or would you make it so that it could be pushed up against another table of the same height to double your gaming area (if desired)? Would you make the top of it modular so that you could swap out green meadow boards for desert or snow boards, for example? Would you incorporate draws or cupboards underneath? Would you have a side-table built in, or as a separate table? Fire away!

Try something like this it seems to have everything
link

Mmm, that's nice but just slightly out of my price range!

Check out YouTube, that's where I'm getting a lot of inspiration these days

The best wargame table I have ever played on is Brent Oman's table (author of Piquet Field of Battle). You can see a photo of part of it on my blog.

link

It is 6 x 8. Top is painted blue and he uses 1 ft by 1 ft tiles for terrain. It has a lip or shelf area running down the length of each side for dice, cups, casualty markers etc… There are built in dice towers on the corners made from boxed-in pvc pipe. Under the table are six cabinets (three on each side) where he stores his unpainted lead and other gaming related stuff. It is on castors. And don't forget lighting. The table is lit from above by 8 can lights recessed into the ceiling. He also has built in bookcases around two sides that hold his collection of wargame books and Ikea cabinets that store his painted armies. Best wargame room ever.

Greg C.

I really love the shelfs ! It's always a pity when "things" (glasses, bottles, rules, notes, dice, etcetera) clutter a previously great looking table and obviously that will not happen here. Chapeau !

I not presenting my table as the perfect table, but it is simple to make and can be taken down when not in use. The table is 5 ft. x 7 ft. and made of plywood. It has a lip around the edge. On the bottom of the board is a second rectangular lip the size and shape of a 3 ft. x 6 ft folding table (provide my table its legs). The folding table slips onto the underneath lip to prevent the table from slipping if bumped. For ground cover I use a green indoor-outdoor carpet when doing grassy areas and a tan indoor-outdoor carpet when doing deserts. For urban areas and oceans I use 2 ft x 4 ft sheets of plastic used to cover ceiling lighting (it's cheap, easy to cut to size and can be purchased at most hardware stores). When the table is not in use, the upper surface and folding table are simply leaning flat against my garage wall until needed the next time. You can see my table in pic 46 of my Victorian gallery at link

This is one I always like and more affordable if you are handy
link

bandit86, that stuff is jawdropping. I'm almost ready to trade my car…

Ooh, I like that one Bandit, I think I will be pinching some ideas from that one.

Make it counter top height to prevent back problems reaching over the table.

Make it no wider than 7 feet so people can reach the middle.

Make it as long as your have space for.

Put storage shelving underneath so that your collection is close.

The table top should extend out farther than the edge of the supports so you can stand close without your feet getting in the way.

Check out model RR sites on construction techniques.

My friend Randy of Fidelis Models built my table and he made it strong enough to walk on, he built it like a stage. When dealing with wargame moose-boys a sturdy table is a must.

Mike Bunkermeister Creek
Bunker Talk blog

I built mine from a sheet of 1" thick mdf, 4'X8' foot.

I had the store cut it into two 4'X4' squares.

Then, I added a lip around 3 sides of each piece, the lip being made from 1"X4" strip. The lip extends 1" below the table and 2" above it.

Once the lip was in place, I drilled 4 equally-spaced holes into the open edge of one of the sections, and matching holes in the other. Into the holes of one section, I glued wooden dowels. This lets me slide the two halves together and not have them slip from one side to another.

The top is painted in a nice french glossy blue acrylic. I also painted the inside of the raised lip. It allows me to have a sense of horizon, and also to leave any areas where I want water to be, left open. I can also use it plain for air or naval games, etc.

The underside will be painted black in the spring, with a star field pattern for spaceship gaming.

The lower lip also helps keep the table from sliding off the large dining table I can place it on, or I can use saw horses. Both work equally well.

I made the table in 2 4'X4' sections so I can use either 1 large or 2 small tables, or just a small table for, say, WH40K or other such games. It also stores easily, much easier than a single 4'X8' table.

Hey guys!

Glad some of you liked my table (which is now disassembled, since I have two kids!). Always funny to realize that there are entire boards (namely ancients) that I have never posted on and so probably have never seen the stuff that translates between eras, like scenery and the like:)

My table isn't fancy(not a piece of furniture) but it is 15x6 along with a shelf underneath. Have had many large scale games. We have been using it for almost 30 years.