"Homecast 28mm Byzantines take 2" Topic

Hi All,

In a bit of a departure from my fantasy and sci-fi model making I made some Byzantines as my mate is into historical figures. They were a challenge as they have a very distinctive set of armour with lamellar over chain mail. They have come out quite pleasingly, but I must think more about where I put the mould line as I placed it directly over a scabbard edge which was not a good idea. Hope you like them. comments and crits welcome. I look forward to see how my friend paints them.

Hope you all like them. Comments and crits welcome.

I duplicated this post because it didn't let me cross-post on the first try.

kropotkinspage.wordpress.com

Cool, they're pretty smart. Did you sculpt yourself and then make a mould?

Hi Young Guard,

Yes. They were sculpted using greenstuff over a dolly that I made with the basic shape of the figure, so that I could use the same dolly again for other figures. Then I made a mould using RTV silicone rubber and poured the metal. If you want to know anything else about the process let me know.

Thanks

I'd like to know your process. I'm just getting into scupting and want to cast my own sculpts as well. Thanks!

Thanks for the interest Punisher,

Here is a good, I believe, set of tutorials for sculpting figures.

link

I started out thinking that I needed to make a wire armature for the whole body, including the head. Over time I have come to the conclusion that your wire armature only needs to be of the legs and torso. At the scale we want to sculpt the head and arms are able to support themselves as long as you build them up in small steps: shoulders, upper arm, fore arm and hand. Also sculpt your dolly really thin as clothes, boots and armour add bulk.

My soldier standing to attention is way too bulky around the middle, but the archer and guy with spear forward are more natural I believe.

This is the stuff I make my moulds from: Polycraft Room Temperature Vulcanising silicone rubber (RTV). I get mine from e-bay or Amazon. You can get harder rubber, but this stuff is kind of pink and very flexible.

link

I basically got into homecasting from casting Prince August Moulds. So I used them as my blueprint. They are drop cast moulds and I stole their dimensions, particularly the amount of "plug" or drop.Buy one and see how it works.
Prince August also have a good tutorial about casting figures.

link

When I am making my moulds I use 2 layers of Lego bricks at about the same size as a Prince August mould. I fill up 1 layer with soft plasticene and I use left over Prince August plugs to get the "drop" right. I then gently push half of my green figure into the mould. IMPORTANT: Then push the rounded end of a pencil part-way into the plasticene twice, to give you lining-up plugs for when you pour the other half of the mould. Fill this up to the top of the Lego with RTV rubber and let it harden for 2 days at least.

Next turn your set mould over and peal off the plasticene. Take care not to disturb the Green sitting in the rubber.Your lining-up plugs will allow you to align the second half of the mould. IMPORTANT: Brush on Vaseline over the exposed surface of the first half of the set rubber mould. If you don't do this the two halves will stick together and everything will be ruined.Then pour the second half of the mould and leave for at least 2 days.

OK, sorry that this is long-winded, but now when you open the mould it should come apart easily and you can pull the Green figure out. It will often break, but its job is done.

Now you can follow the Prince August tutorial for casting figures but here are a few tips:

Make your first figure a person standing upright with the "Plug" at the top of the head. Gravity will allow the hot metal to get to every part.

If you want to cast a figure with arms outstretched you will need to cut vents-just a knife stroke from the hand to the outer edge of the mould to allow gasses and the hot metal to reach the end of the mould.

You will need to make a fine cut between the "plug" and the casting point of the figure so that the hot metal will be able to pour into the mould.

Always dust the two halves of the mould with talcum powder before starting a cast. You don't have to do this for every cast, perhaps 1 in 10.

Don't be dis-heartened if your first casts are incomplete as the casting process needs time to heat up the rubber. Every mould is different and you will have "runs" of good casts and bad. Keep at it and another "good" run may happen. If it doesn't let the mould cool and go back again.

You will need to clamp the mould and you will need to experiment to see what clamps and where work best. Use two pieces of ply-wood on the outside of the mould so that the rubber is not distorted as it is very soft.

Be prepared to cut new vents as you see fit as your casting goes along, as you will see where the hot metal is not reaching certain parts of the mould.

IMPORTANT: Always respect hot metal. Have a sink of cold water at hand for burns, wear glasses or goggles and tough shoes and clothes. Also keep a window open as there can be fumes.

Wow.

I hope that tells you a bit about how I did these guys. If you want to know more please ask.

Thanks

P.S. Modern metal alloys work better than recycled old lead as they are harder and give a crisper figure.

Very 1970s.

Very true Henry, as most of my figures are old school 1970s figures I guess that is where my heart lies. I think new figures are excellent though, so perhaps in time my poses will get more modern in time.