"Some Bavarians" Topic

though not a 28 mm painter – I couldn' resist to the 28 mm Bavarians by the Perrys, I started with the Schützen and then painted the elite company also as the other Schützen half equipped with the musket instead of the stutzen – I am still experimenting, like my light blue got better on the second batch.

and

Schützen NCO ( i sculpted a plume on the miniature)

I also did some 18 mm ABs to see them in comparison to the Perrys, alas they are in parade dress – so I had to convert the breeches and gaiters into long campaign overals and on the other figure I added a bread bag and the canteen.

looks like you are a 28mm painter , stunning work

Gorgeous work!
Both the Perry's and AB's

Excellent work. I like the blue. Not too light which is the mistake often made.

von W, I've read that the colour of 'cornflower' blue is a contentious issue, the very pale 'Osprey books' blue now generally considered to be too pale. I really like your take on cornflower blue. Would you tell me what colours you've used to achieve this effect. I paint in 15mm and mainly use Vallejo paints.
Cheers,
Phil W.

Superb painting vonW – inspiring work!

Excellent work Von W! You have got the wash technique down. I've never been able to master that myself and stick to the Dallimore method.

VW,
Having painted both 28mm and 18mm, these are very well done. Good to see you posting more of your work and getting back into the painting groove.
John

Well done, great job for both scales.

Beautiful!

Any chance on how you painted these figures? I really like the way you painted these.

Thank you
Michael

Both sets look great, look forward to seeing more.

Superb job!.
Congrats!.

Amicalement
Armand

There is something about Bavarians. Superb work.

Nice! I always like seeing well painted Bavarians.

Beautiful brushwork!

Wonderful work!

Thanks for the feed back, from a lot of painters whose work I admire, highly appreciated.

I avoid using Vallejo – there I don't like the dropper bottles, nevertheless I am sitting on a myriad of paints, inherited from the past – my favourites so far Coat d'Armes and the recently detected Duncan colours.
Otherwise I like to use artis acrylic paints was well as artist water colours.
For Bavarian blue I use Foundry Bavarian blue ( the middle tone) – there wrgmr1 spotted with his expert eyes, I use a lot of glazes, so I have to make my basic colour a bit lighter, so I could add a bit Foundry Bavarian light, for a glaze I use artist water colours – a darker blue and add a bit Vallejo matt medium – which makes the artist water colour more resistent – as long as the paint is wet, I remove with the tip of a wet brush the paint where I like the lights – in case that doesn't work (ever so in 28 mm) I paint the lights with the basic colour and add more Bavarian light blue or add ivory white into this basic blue layer mix for the lights.
My basic approach is to prime with GW skull white spay – and then use a glaze of either deep violet blue (a mix of artist acrylics prussian blue and crimson) or a very dark brown (like for Austrians) – the result is a very nice definition of details and shades.
When blocking in the base colour – I leave this glazed shadows at the deep shados, or like under a belt etc.
Then I top it with a glaze – usually using artist water colours and a bit of Vallejo matt medium – which in 18 mm will often do the trick (see Sho Boki figures).
There I use artist water colours I have to varnish the figure.
For my glazes I prefer artist water colours along with Vallejo matt medium, most likley out of habit, those I also use for my horses.
So my way is to go with a first basic layer, usually much lighter than the desired end result and tone this down by a glaze of dark colour (mostly using artist water colours with a bit of Vallejo matt medium) – in case needed take away the still wet paint with a wet brush or add highlights.

Also a real good investment is to go to youtube and search for painting with Romain – and watch his 5 parts of colour theory.

thanks for the info – just bought some of the Foundry Bavarian blue paints though I doubt very much my painting will be anywhere near your standard :-)

Many thanks for the painting guidance Von… (smile)

Amicalement
Armand

Yes, thanks for the advice on painting techniques Von W.
I'm guessing a lot of practice was done before you perfected this?

I really like you idea of adding crimson to Prussian blue, I'll have to try that. Also light glaze first, followed by a darker shade. Guessing the darker shade has more medium in it?

Practise, yes, but not a lot – in the end I use and exploit the quality of different paints, artist acrylics, water colour acrylics and hobby colour acrylics.

As I said – my first layer is priming – I use GW spray skull white.

After drying – I put a dark glaze layer on it, it is not a wash, but it will very nicely define the figure, I add to this the Vallejo matt medium. For this first glaze I usually use artist acrlyics – like mixing crimson and prussian blue with hobby acrylics will end in a fiasco, the trick – if too thick – it covers all detail, if too thin, it is not well defining the creases, fur, hair etc.

Then I block in my base layer – usually hobby acrylic paint like Coat d'Armes, Duncan, etc., which according to my technique is usually ways lighter than the later aimed for hue, I leave the very deep creases and where I like a sharp definition in the first glaze dark tone ) so don't overpaint it there), which will provide a deep shade.

After the paint has thoroughly dried – as sort of 4th layer is applied – I put a glaze over all the surface of that desired area, lets say the blue coat, and covering also the deep shadows, this glaze is usually an artist water colour with a bit Vallejo matt medium, otherwise I don't use any other mediums.

So I have two shades, they very deep ones – 4th layer is over very dark clour creating a depp shade, the usual shade of 4th glaze and not so deep folds and the higher points of the folds where the 4th layer is thinner and trasansulcent and block layer shows through – usually in 18 mm that's it – like green coats of Sho Boki's generals.

In case were needed I take of this glaze with a wet brush – like horses where I want to simulate the reflection of the light, or on a cartridge box – or – in case of 28 mm which makes it more tedious – do highlighting the traditional way with block colour (the usual thinning down with water etc) and adding where liked an even lighter colour – for that one has to see the colour theory by Romain on you tube or one can fail in saturating a paint which won't be that good for a highlight for example etc.

Hope that all makes a bit of sense

I can only say I must read this again tomorrow. I have enjoyed an extremely good night out, tonight. I have learnt some very useful tips from von W…….esp painting a red stripe!

This needs a serious sober answer! von W, you should go beyond just this response. We need a publication from you (I do anyway!)

Ok, it took me three times reading it through, but I get it. Long day, long week.
Interesting technique, I'll have to try it. Especially using the medium.
WHEN I start a new army.

My technique for highlighting horses, so they look like they are in the sun is to paint a base layer of various browns or black, over a base of black.
Then wash on the upper parts, hunches, shoulders, with bronze, copper or blue silver depending on the color of horse.
Then I take a medium dark brown and wash it again. dulling down the shine.

VW

Very splendid figures and so well painted and shaded.

I shall have to get some to update my Foundry Bavarians.

Cheers,

Paul

Very nice – I miss the cornflower blue but I appreciate the research that has got us to this point.

Lovely bavarian!

Really excellent work! In addition to the great painting you did a superb job on the AB trouser conversions. Thanks for posting!