"Best way to store/ transport 15mm WWII kit?" Topic

To the wise Magi of TMP:
The circle of lead and pewter is closing in on me and I need to store some of it more efficiently. Quite frankly its them or me! My question is what is the best way to store and transport 15mm tanks, trucks, artillery, etc.? My vehicles are based on flocked plasticard and not on magnetic bases nor with ferromagnetic bases. I use modular utility drawers for the infantry and heavy weapons but the vehicles are a problem – primarily because of the antennae. Any helpful suggestions would be greatly appreciated as they might save me from having to buy a bigger place in which to live!
The base metal noose is ever tightening.
Rod Robertson

Yes! However not sure you can get them on that side of the pond.

Really Useful Boxes. They are boxes which are … well, really useful.

The ones I use are 9 litre, sometimes the 4 litre which are the same but only half the height. Into these go 4 (or 2) 'Hobby Trays' These are divided into 15 compartments (5x3) which are 60mm square and 30mm high. All my stuff is now based 20mm or 30mm sizes! (so 9 20mm square for WSS, 4 30mm square for ACW, or 3 WMA 20x40). I have my 20mm/1-72 on pennies so they also go 9 to a compartment.

The lids clip on by the handles. They are strong, and they stack The tray plastic is 'soft' so don't scratch.

Because the 9 and 4 stack I have all my terrain in them. The fact the trays are seperarate therefore are not fixed means you have lots of room.

Your problem is the antennae – you can easily turn a tray upsideown to make a 'lid' – tip make a way to pull it up such as a piece of string threaded through for a handle!

I also use a 4l for my dice/equipment box.

I am slowly transferring all my stuff into them – the lipped lids for stacking makes carrying easy. Plus as they are A4 size you can keep QRS etc under the bottom layer.

This is my WIP box

link

I use the Lipped tray for brushes as it has long 'pen' compartments. Because it hangs on the tob, it creates room for the paint pots- which are higher than 30mm. The bottom layer has the current batches in- the compartments allow you to sort them and they wont get mixed up. It takes me literally 30 seconds set up/put away, and once the lid is locked in they are safe. Reference books can go in because of the gap afforded by the hanging tray.

Be aware the lipped tray stretches the handles over time, so they are loose if you don't have the lipped tray in.

Because of RUBs my wargames stuff is the most organised (only organised) part of my life!

I use boxes like these:
link

I too use 'really useful' boxes, but wish there was a way to lock the tops on more securely. I now ALWAYS pick them up by the sides (not the handled ends) after several times when the box has slid out from underneath , spilling the contents, and left me holding the lid.
I also use neoprene style thin sheet (about 2 to 3mm thick) from art shops (cut to size) to line the bottom of each compartment avoiding figure/vehicle sliding.
I use their smaller 0.2L and 0.4L (deep) boxes for storing delicate units within tool boxes. 0.4L is ideal for 15mm upright lance cavalry or pike blocks

Not sure how you are holding them- can't find a way as when they are locked I am holding part of the box

If you buy the pre cut squares of felt; they fit almost perfectly into the really useful boxes and have more grip, IMHO.
Also, you can choose from a multitude of colors so when looking at a box you can immediately tell things like the red felt is British and the blue felt is French.
Sorry I can't post pics.

Line boxes with sheet magnet. Then affix "rubber steel" to the bottom of your vehicle bases. Rubber steel is just sheet magnet but without the magnet part. Can be cut with scissors. And you can use undersized bits. If you vehicle base is 30x60mm, a roughly 25 x 50 piece will still hold your vehicle just fine.

I just use photo storage boxes that are readily available from craft stores in the US. They are usually 4-5" deep at least so your attenae will be safe. Then cut scrap cardboard as dividers and hot glue in place to keep minis from sliding around too much. Doesn't do much for tilting and shocks though, so handle with care is still needed.

I also have access to a wood shop and often build light wooded boxes 9x12 and 2" deep. I add dividers and cover the inside and over the dividers in felt and staple in place for that "upholstered" look. A lid is held in place with velcro "hinges" or just velco buttons stuck to the lid and box. These boxes can take a little more shock than the aforementioned photo boxes.

Thank you for your ideas. I shall begin to counter-attack the lead hordes as soon as I hit upon the perfect system. Trays and soft carrying cases from nilecorp.com seem an attractive option but expensive. I have some thinking and more research to do.
Cheers.
Rod Robertson